Paris

Letter from Paris: Tekés — Vegetarian Cooking to Make You Green With Envy
By Alexander Lobrano In Hebrew, the word ‘Tekés’ means ceremony, with the implication of a celebration. In Paris, the word now has two meanings–the original Hebrew one, and a second one as the name of Tekés, a very popular new restaurant, which is also a cause for rejoicing, because it

Parcelles, Paris: The Guileless Charm of a Perfect Bistrot a Vins
By Alexander Lobrano Tucked away in a mercifully still ungentrified street in the northern Marais, Parcelles is a very near perfect Parisian bistrot a vins, or bistro with a special focus on wine. It’s immediate charm, which comes from the wake of the addresses that proceeded it at the same address,

Paris Through a Seasoned Eye
by Richard West Amidst the world’s most beautiful city (or is it Venice?), minutiae spotted during two days wandering Paris’s back streets, quais, bridges, passages, parks, squares, an arcade or two in perfect back end of the year weather—sunny, 60f, calm—during a recent New Year’s Eve visit.

Exploring Samuel Beckett’s Paris
By William C. Triplett If you’re ever going to feel like you’ve somehow wandered into an absurdist play, I suppose it’s fitting that it happens as it did to me on a cold, drizzly afternoon in Paris last December, in the 14th arrondissement on the Left Bank, where I was

Letter from Paris: Granite
By Alexander Lobrano Stepping through the front door of talented young chef Tom Meyer’s restaurant Granite in Paris unleashed a rush of memories and also inspired hope during a profoundly testing time. Though the COVID epidemic is still very much with us, as of this writing (December 16, 2021), restaurants in

Letter from Paris: Liquide
By Alexander Lobrano It wasn’t until I went to Liquide, chef Matthias Marc’s new “modern tavern” cum bistro in Les Halles in Paris the other day for lunch that I realized just how much I had been missing restaurants since they shut down in France last October. What I’d been

Letter from Paris: MoSuke, Paris, Mory Sacko’s Exquisite Franco-Afro-Japanese Cuisine
By Alexander Lobrano As the months roll by during the second national lockdown of France’s restaurants, I often find myself thinking of chef Mory Sacko and his intriguing restaurant MoSuke. The reason why is that I desperately hope this exceptionally talented young chef’s intriguing restaurant will survive the financial

An Interview with Alexander Lobrano on his new Paris Memoir, “My Place at The Table.”
By Everett Potter It’s the rare American food writer who can not only hold his own among the food-obsessed French but become one of the leading restaurant critics in Paris. That is the story at the heart of My Place at the Table: A Recipe for a Delicious Life

17 Far-Flung Correspondents on Life During the Coronavirus
Reports from Honolulu, Paris, Portland (ME and OR), Madison, Israel, Amsterdam, New York and other places on daily life during these challenging times. Everett Potter, Pelham, NY From my perch in southern Westchester, I’m about a quarter-mile from the first containment zone in the US. No matter, it’s not containing

Letter from Paris: A L’Epi d’Or, An Heirloom Bistro’s Brilliant Revival
By Alexander Lobrano A L’Epi d’Or, a solid old neighbourhood bistro that opened on the edge of Les Halles in 1880, has mercifully been spared the ignominious fate of too many traditional Paris bistros in an ever gentrifying city: becoming a clothing store. Sepia-tinted by decades of Gauloises and Gitanes,