Jordan

By Barnaby Conrad III Photos by Barnaby Conrad/Deb Stock You know how it is in Wadi Rum when the sword of the sun strikes the desert and the Bedu appear out of the heat mirage like black ghosts? Well, that’s the way it was when our guide, Ra’ed Saleem, turned

By Bobbie Leigh It began badly, a kidney-crashing, five-mile drive in a  rusty pickup truck along unpaved  paths carved out between huge sandstone boulders.  (Vans and private cars remain at the Visitors Center to protect the environment.) But gradually,  15 minutes into the ride, we (a small group of journalist