Grand Manan Island

By Gary Walther North Head is where the ferry docks and is the tourism center of Grand Manan Island. These three restaurants are all in North Head, two within walking distance of the ferry. The Inn at Whale Cove Cottages, North Head Easily the best restaurant on the island (below,

By Gary Walther The Arctic Terns are in a dither when we land on Machias Seal Island, a 90-minute voyage southeast of Grand Manan Island–and the one trip you should do during a stay here because you may not get another chance. A Peregrine Falcon had just turned up and

By Gary Walther This morning Whale Cove was stuffed with magnesium-flare fog, so metallic-bright it repulsed the eye. The wind toyed with it, turning the top edge into wispy hunchbacks, and by sending all that moisture up the slope to Whale Cove Cottages, lent the air a cool, just-laundered scent.

By Gary Walther If an island could have a resting heart rate, Grand Manan’s would be about 45, perhaps spiking five beats when the ferry arrives. Here, even the compass is simplified, as there are only two major directions, to North Head and to Southwest Head. The former is where

By Gary Walther The Grand Manan ferry left the terminal in Blacks Harbour in a fog more sheen than soup, a silvery sheath that enveloped it for more than an hour. Then, just off the north tip of Grand Manan, the ferry crossed the threshold into clear, and into a