Germany

By Ruth J. Katz Legends take time to accumulate the burnished patina that renders them mythic. The glorious Fontenay Hotel is scarcely a year old, yet this shrine to the ultimate in lodging was the talk of le tout Hamburg before the front door was even unlocked. Touted to be

By Monique Burns Given our long love affair with cars, we Americans rarely choose to vacation near train stations.  But in Europe, with its extensive network of fast, modern trains, rail stations are not just waiting rooms, they’re popular destinations filled with restaurants and shops.  Even luxury hotels are only

By Everett Potter When I travel, what I pack in depends on where I’m going and what I’m doing. In my luggage stash, there are rollaboards, duffle bags of varying dimensions, duffle bags with wheels and backpacks of various sizes. But garment bags? I confess that I haven’t used a

By Gary Walther The Hotel Detective maintains a short list of top three-night cities, smaller cities, mostly in Europe, and so named because they can be taken in in that time. They share three qualities: easily mastered, culturally rich, and with a well-preserved historic core, often ringed by the original

  A scene from Eisenach’s medieval Luther Festival. Photo Andreas Weise.   German Odyssey, Part 5 By Monique Burns Fans of composer Johann Sebastian Bach—and admirers of Martin Luther, the Protestant reformer whose hymns inspired him—should carve out a few days to visit the city of Eisenach. A center of

By Monique Burns   Bid farewell to Dresden, capital of Saxony, and head to the neighboring state of Thuringia and its cultural capital, Weimar, about 2 ½ hours west via the high-speed Intercity-Express (ICE) train.  Leafy cobblestone streets, pastel-colored houses and fountain-dappled squares are reason enough to visit this graceful

By Monique Burns  When Saxony’s rulers really wanted to let down their hair, they headed just outside Dresden to castles and country houses along the River Elbe.  There they hunted in the open air, cultivated fine wines, and oversaw porcelain-making and other pursuits.  Visitors to the Saxon Elblands can still

    By Monique Burns Since the 25th anniversary of German Reunification in 2015, thousands of Americans have headed east to Berlin, Europe’s newest “Capital of Cool,” where hip cafés and contemporary galleries vie with masterpiece-filled museums and World War II historic sites.  Two hours south is Dresden, the lesser-known,

Story & photos by Monique Burns I’m headed to Berlin.  After two or three years of hearing how incredibly hip the German capital is, my curiosity finally has gotten the better of me.  It’s fall 2015—the 25th anniversary of German Reunification, proclaimed in 1990, a year after the Berlin Wall

By Monique Burns In Berlin, the German capital, as in other great metropolises, finding a good, reasonably priced hotel in the center-city is well nigh impossible.  If you do find a hotel that’s clean and comfortable, you’re lucky.  If it also has free Wi-Fi, a gym and sauna, a bar,