Acre

Story & photos by Jeanne Muchnick There are things in Israel you have to do: The Western Wall in Jerusalem, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Dead Sea, the nightlife of Tel Aviv, and Jerusalem’s Holocaust Museum, Yad Vashem. But then there are the off the beaten track behind-the-scenes

Bab Shrine and the Baha'i Gardens, Haifa by Ed Wetschler When last we stood on the slopes of Mount Carmel, which rises from the blue sea to give Haifa a humpback, Ziv Cohen and I were bantering about the slim odds of finding much kosher dining in this Israeli city.

By Ed Wetschler “Haifa is the most beautiful city in Israel,” says guide Ziv Cohen as we gaze at the Mediterranean from a high terrace. And he’s right. Looking around, I’m reminded not of Jerusalem, with its ancient golden stones, nor Tel Aviv, where town meets beach, but of San