Letter from Paris

By Alexander Lobrano It’s taken well over a decade, but the renovation of the Gare Saint Lazare, the busiest train station in France, has finally been completed, and despite the fact that the clear marching orders to the architect must have been to compress the public spaces in favor of

By Alexander Lobrano Having lived there for many years, I observed that the 7th arrondissement is actually a mosaic of very different little neighborhoods. The chunk of the 7th between the boulevard Saint Germain and the Seine, for example, is aristocratic in tone but more worldly and cosmopolitan than the

By Alexander Lobrano Arriving for dinner at Les Jalles with Julie, a delightful English woman who lived in Paris for many years before recently moving to her husband’s native Sydney, and my Alabamian pal Judy, I parted the heavy velvet drapes at door of this storefront restaurant in the rue des Capucines

“Mais attendez, Monsieur–you brought steaks back to France with you from the United States? Vous etes completement fou ou quoi?” (Are you completely crazy or what?) Well, I’m not going to touch that interesting question from a French custom’s inspector with a barge pole, so I’ll just get it over

by Alexander Lobrano The longer I live in the 9th arrondissement, the more I like it, and one of the main reasons why is that my neighbors in this wonderful quartierreally love good food. If it was an admirable pitch of turf when I first crossed the Seine twelve years

By Alexander Lobrano For a variety of reasons, the French have been slow to come up with a good Gallic gastronomic retort to the creeping American concept of ‘fast casual-dining’ (Boy, do I hate that phrase, which resonates as a pretty unconvincing euphemism for fat-and-unhealthy). In fact, in many large

  By Alexander Lobrano Since I’m unapologetically obsessed by good food, it almost never happens that I leave the house without knowing where I’m going to eat. Most of the time, in fact, my destination has been carefully researched, and when possible, I love reading a menu online beforehand, partly

By Alexander Lobrano Unfortunately, I was never able to book a place at The Hidden Kitchen, the running series of private dinner parties cooked and hosted by the hugely talented Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian in their Paris apartment, because I travel so often and these meals were so popular

By Alexander Lobrano I love the 10th arrondissement, because it still has a lot of real Parisian atmosphere and hasn’t yet become infested with Starbucks and Subways. Instead, this until recently rather forgotten corner of Paris is continuing to emerge as one of the city’s most interesting food neighborhoods, mainly

  By Alexander Lobrano Ever since it opened in 2009, Frenchie, chef Gregory Marchand’s excellent contemporary French bistro in the rue du Nil in the Sentier, Paris’s old garment district and one of my favorite parts of the city, has been one of the toughest places in Paris at which