by Geri Bain
A cruise from Thunder Bay, Ontario to Milwaukee, Wisconsin sounded like an unlikely itinerary for an “expedition” cruise, but with scientists and naturalists leading explorations via kayak, Zodiac, submarine and lightening-speed, turn-on-a-dime, military-grade special operations boats, the eight-day “Undiscovered Great Lakes” cruise on Viking Cruises’ elegant Polaris expedition ship felt both adventurous and luxurious.
The cruise had special appeal to my husband and me who are nature show buffs. During our cruise, we spotted bald eagles and beavers and learned about the relationship between lichen (which weathers rock so trees can take root) and trees (which provide homes for lichen). Lessons came in fun ways during hikes, entertaining talks and via casual interactions with naturalists on outings and in the Exploration Center. In fact, you could even sign up for group dinners with the naturalists. Click here to read about the on-board experience. Here are some highlights from our ports of call.
We spent a pre-cruise night in Thunder Bay based at the waterfront Delta Hotels Thunder Bay, a four-star Marriott with a gastropub and bikes for rent. Before dinner, we set out along the pretty Prince Arthur’s Landing lakeside park. We especially loved the trails that wound through Spirit Garden. Designed in partnership with Anishinaabe and other indigenous cultures, it had informative signposts about their customs and local flora and fauna.
Thunder Bay is a center for art, history, and outdoor sports. During our pre-cruise day, we explored Fort William Historical Park, about a 25-minute drive from town. Once the largest trading post in the Canadian west, the Fort recreates daily life in 1815. On a guided tour, we chatted with two Anishinaabe women in their encampment and met the wife of the fort’s director and other costumed reenactors. We also visited the thundering 130-foot tall Kakabeka Falls. Too soon, it was time to board the ship. We wished we had allowed an extra day to explore the museums and indigenous and local art scene in town and perhaps take one of the scenic hikes in the surrounding area.
Silver Islet was our first stop. We anchored offshore, and a tender went back and forth from the tiny town, with its single cafe/general store and only a handful of year-round residents. On a leisurely guided hike along Sea Lion Trail, we learned that the once thriving town sprang up to support one of the richest and most unusual silver mines of the mid-19th century. The silver deposit was underwater. Incredibly, to reach it, an entire island was built around the deposit, the water was pumped out, and mine shafts were excavated to depths of 384 meters. That afternoon, on a zodiac excursion, we saw one of the hauntingly abandoned shafts, now fully underwater.
At Terrace Bay, our next day’s anchorage, we explored the coast by Zodiac and then spent several hours at secluded Terrace Bay Beach, an expansive cove beach. There, we followed a steep path that led to pretty waterfalls and a deep gorge. A bridge spanning the falls offered stunning views of the gorge and of the falls tumbling down to the lake.
The next day’s anchorage, McGarvey Shoal, came with a moral. A luxury yacht, the Gunilda was shipwrecked here in 1911. Its owner had decided he didn’t need to hire a pilot to navigate through this archipelago of low-lying islands. “Penny-wise and pound-foolish,” our guide said. The shoals are actually the tops of underground mountains and traveling by Zodiac through the rocky shallows, it was easy to imagine how the shipwreck could happen.
In Duluth, the ship docked in the heart of a lively shopping and dining area and steps from several museums including the Lake Superior Maritime Museum. We enjoyed dipping in and out of the shops and watching ships pass under the innovative Aerial Lift Bridge. We also joined a tour to Glensheen Mansion, once home to turn-of-the-century lawyer, legislator and mining magnate Chester Adgate Congdon whose life offered insights into the mining, beer and other industries that built this lively city.
It’s about a 21-foot drop from Lake Superior into Lake Huron. Before the first Soo Lock opened in 1858, ships would have to navigate the rapids that connected the two lakes. Now there are two passages, with a third underway. The Polaris waited its turn to enter the lock and we watched as the gates closed. Slowly the water was released and our ship dropped. “Go to the back of the ship now,” we were advised. Only then, looking at the wall behind us, did we fully realize the height difference between the two lakes.
Mackinac Island allows no cars—just horse-drawn cabs and bicycles—which felt very quaint. We strolled around the touristy main street, stopping into a few of the 17 fudge shops, and then took a delightful walk out of town past grand guesthouses and homes, all framed for lovely views of the lake. The island was so picturesque that it was hard to look anywhere and not see a perfectly framed photo.
On our last evening aboard the ship, we and some fellow passengers were sharing our favorite parts of the cruise. The active adventures ranked high for many, and everyone talked about how they loved life aboard the ship. Most of all, we were all awed by the sense of discovery as we cruised through uninhabited archipelagoes and vast expanses of untouched Canadian wilderness.
Next: Read more about the shipboard experience on the Great Lakes Viking Polaris Expedition cruise.
Planning basics: Viking Cruises offers expedition itineraries around the Great Lakes varying in duration from eight to 17 nights between May and October. Priced from $5,995 per person, rates include an excursion in every port, port fees, gratuities, beer, wine & soft drinks with meals, access to the Nordic Spa and fitness center, and more. Kayak, zodiac & special operations boat outings are included; submarine excursions cost $499 per person. In 2026, a similar itinerary to my trip (although it doesn’t visit Lake Superior) is the 10-day Great Lakes Treasures, priced from $8,295. A 15-day Great Lakes Collection, priced from $15,995, visits all five Great Lakes and includes a tour of Thunder Bay’s Fort William Historical Park and Kakabeka Falls.
For more information: vikingcruises.com/expeditions
Geri Bain, a widely published travel writer and editor, is the co-author of The Complete Guide to Vow Renewals, released in December 2018. She has written about more than 60 countries and contributed to publications including inc.com, about.com, N.Y. Daily News and Robb Report. While travel editor at Modern Bride magazine, she wrote an acclaimed guide to Honeymoons and Weddings Away. She is a past president of the New York Travel Writers Association and former editorial director of Endless Vacation magazine.