Letter from Paris: Liquide
By Alexander Lobrano
It wasn’t until I went to Liquide, chef Matthias Marc’s new “modern tavern” cum bistro in Les Halles in Paris the other day for lunch that I realized just how much I had been missing restaurants since they shut down in France last October. What I’d been craving was that whole spectrum of gastronomic talent, wit and creativity which will likely forever elude me even during my best moments as a cook. In other words, my palate was just desperate for dishes beyond my ken in the kitchen, and so I arrived at Marc’s latest table with very high expectations.
His 16th Arrondissement bistro Substance established him as one of the best young chefs in Paris when it opened in May 2019, and on every visit to this table, I’ve found myself more admiring of Marc’s wiry and very original talent in the kitchen. Among other things, Marc is one of the most talented of the growing band of new neo-regionalist chefs in Paris, since he proudly references the produce and recipes of his native Jura in eastern France in a way that is at once respectfully affectionate and then intriguingly iconoclastic … continue reading
Alexander Lobrano’s new memoir is “My Place at the Table: A Recipe for a Delicious Life in Paris.” Lobrano grew up in Connecticut and lived in Boston, New York, and London before moving to Paris, his home today, in 1986. He has written about food and travel for The New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, The Guardian, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel & Leisure and Conde Nast Traveler. He is the author of Hungry for Paris: The Ultimate Guide to the City’s 109 Best Restaurants (Random House), which was published in a second edition in 2014 and is a Contributing Editor at Saveur Magazine. Hungry for France was published by Rizzoli in April 2014. Visit his website, www.alexanderlobrano.com. Photo Steven Rothfeld.