Photos by Effin Older. Words by Jules Older

When you say Benicia, San Franciscans tend to scorn. “Why go there?” they sigh. Here’s why.

Just an hour or so north of the Bay Bridge, Benicia is a surprise-filled with surprises.

For 13 months in the 1850s, it was California’s capital; the capitol building is still there and open to visitors.

The Arsenal is also still there, but instead of housing soldiers and camels, it’s now a museum and artists’ colony. Camels? Also in the 1850s, Benicia was home to the short-lived United States Camel Corps. Turns out camels are nasty beasts — the army went back to horses.

There’s more.

Good fishing, right in town (Jack London dropped a line here, then wrote about it).

A weekly farmer’s market that shuts down the main drag. Live local music at restaurants and cafes.

A dog-friendly vibe.

Walking trails, kayak put-ins, bike routes, watching the sun set over the water.

Benicia. You ought to go. Really.

Effin and Jules Older shoot, film and write around the world. Really.