By Gary Walther

The Grand Manan ferry left the terminal in Blacks Harbour in a fog more sheen than soup, a silvery sheath that enveloped it for more than an hour.

Then, just off the north tip of Grand Manan, the ferry crossed the threshold into clear, and into a landscape of saturated Impressionist colors–brooding green peninsulas, cobalt-blue shallows, grays glazed and browns bronzed, the red cap of Swallowtail Light at North Head flushed from the brilliant sun. It was as if a cataract had been removed.

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Gary Walther, the former editor-in-chief of Departures and ForbesLife, now writes “The Hotel Detective” column on Forbes.com