Everett Potter's Travel Report

Treasures at the Alameda Point Antiques Faire in California

Story & photos by Julie Snyder

“I collect antiques. Why? Because they’re beautiful.”

Martha Stewart? No, Broderick Crawford, the tough-guy, fedora-wearing actor best known for his starring role as Chief Dan Mathews in the 1950s police drama, “Highway Patrol.” Clearly, antique fans aren’t easily stereotyped.

The universal appeal of antiques reaches critical mass on the first Sunday of every month just across the Bay from San Franciscoat the Alameda Point Antiques Faire,Northern California’s largest antiques show. Typically more than 10,000 treasure hunters roam the breezy peninsula at the one-time Alameda Naval Air Station—decommissioned in 1997—where some 800 vendors have temporarily set up shop.

Doorknobs on display.

Now in its 15th year, the Faire has successfully repurposed the former runways into a haven for vintage valuables—high-quality antiques, collectibles and plenty of kitsch as well. The caveat: All merchandise must be at least 20 years old.

My husband, Joe, and I are in a “declutter and divest” phase of life so we arrived planning to browse, not buy. But with so much bounty, could we possibly escape temptation? With ourAlamedapals Sue and Walt, we slowly wandered among aisles of eclectic merchandise.

Mitts for sale.

Well-worn baseball mitts were nestled between richly-hued native American weavings and exquisite stained glassed windows. Tattered pull toys and vintage dolls were a refreshing reminder of a time when toys didn’t require battery packs and charging stations. There were plaster birdbaths adorned with cherubs, and friezes that looked like miniatures from the Greek Elgin Marbles collection in theBritishMuseum.

And on it went: elegant wood furniture, vintage clothing, all manner of jewelry—including bracelets made from old typewriter keys—enormous, vivid travel posters, and bullet-riddled traffic signs. Rickety bicycles with seats as large as dinner plates, and an old-fashioned suitcase from John Handley in Glasgow that proudly boasted “Improved Solid Leather.”

Vintage suitcases are among the treasures.

The vendors were primarily professionals—as evidenced by their presentation and shopper interaction. Some had great names, The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, Original Sin, Retro Diva, and Chick-a-Boom Vintage among them. Those we chatted with were clearly in their element, showcasing hand-picked wares with pride in the festive alfresco setting.

When we grew woozy from the sensory overload of so much “stuff,” the San Francisco skyscape across the Bay offered a welcome change of focus, as did the food court. The latter however—with over 30 vendors–provided its own sensory overload, with African barbecue, Hawaiian ice, falafel, pizza, crepes, tacos, knish, roasted corn, even Weiner Schnitzel. Roaming carts even served up hot pretzels, crème brûlée and ice cream.

Vintage toy at the fair.

After several hours of meandering, we left empty-handed, surrounded by shoppers pushing carts overflowing with finds. I later asked Joe if any item particularly enticied him. Yes, he said, he was tempted by a brass “dumpy level”—a small telescope with a bubble level attached—to add to his antique tool collection. Practicality won out, however, as he decided to invest instead in tools he can actually use!

Me? A collection of antique hardware– hinges, drawer pulls, door knobs—was my best in show. Why? Maybe because they were beautiful. Surely Broderick Crawford would have approved.

If You Go

The early bird gets the antique, as the show opens at6 a.m. fees: $15 at6 a.m.; $10 at 7:30 a.m.; $5 at 9 a.m.; free after 2 p.m. The show closes at 3 p.m. There’s free parking and shuttle service available, and you can rent shopping carts and dollies to carry your purchases. The rain date is the second Sunday of the month. For more information, visit:

www.alamedapointantiquesfair.com

 Julie Snyder lives near Lake Tahoe, where her current pet project is Nevada Humane Society.  As a writer, editor and publisher, she’s contributed to a variety of lifestyle, in-flight and travel publications, and produced award-winning catalogs for Backroads travel company.  Among her passions are animal welfare, walking, travel and the Green Bay Packers.

Golden Gate, as the fog lifts

By Julie Snyder

Funny how traditions get started. One year during our annual anniversary weekend in San Francisco, Joe and I decided to walk across the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito and ferry back. Now we can’t imagine a visit to the City by the Bay without this leisurely 7-mile amble on our itinerary.

This year it isn’t just our anniversary to be celebrated. The Golden Gate Bridge turns 75 in 2012, heralded by a year-long program of events and a public celebration on May 27.

The first public proclamation for bridges across the San Francisco Bay came in 1869 from Joshua Norton, a bankrupted, slightly mad Gold Rush merchant who called himself “Emperor Norton.” In 1872, railroad executive Charles Crocker put forth the first plans and cost estimates for the ambitious bridge project.

Nearly 60 years passed before construction actually began in January of 1933. And on May 28, 1937, President Franklin D. Roosevelt pressed a telegraph key in the White House to announce the opening of the Golden Gate Bridge to the world. With towers soaring 746 above water—about the height of a 50-story building—the spectacular structure opened ahead of schedule and under its $35-million budget.

Judy's for breakfast

On Chestnut Street in the Marina District, we can glimpse the tops of those towers on our way to Judy’s Café, the first stop on our trans-bay trek where the sourdough French toast topped with bananas and strawberries is hearty enough to sustain a walk over not only the Golden Gate, but the Bay and Richmond bridges as well.

Heading for the waterfront, we hang a left near Golden Gate Yacht Club, host to the 34^th America’s Cup in 2013. A bay-hugging promenade—typically offering an entertaining collection of joggers, bikers, walkers and dogs—leads through Crissy Field in the Presidio, a military installation until 1994 when it became an urban national park.

Near the foot of the Golden Gate Bridge, we often stop at the Warming Hut cafe for a coffee and linger on the breakwater to watch water birds are at play—and if we’re lucky, leaping dolphins. A meandering path leads from the hut up a to the bridge’s pedestrian entrance.

The majesty of the suspension structure with its Art Deco lines and red-orange hue eclipses the minor annoyances of traffic noise and crowds (weekdays are less people-packed than weekends). Throughout its history, the Golden Gate Bridge has seen snow and suicides, the maiden call of Cunard’s Queen Victoria, and the 75^th birthday fete of an artist who tap-danced across the bridge’s 1.7-mile expanse.

On the Marin County side of the bridge, Fort Baker—another “Post-to-Park” conversion like the Presidio—offers plenty of diversions, should you want to linger. Historic buildings now house the Bay Area Discovery Museum, a kid magnet with hands-on art, science and environmental exhibitions and events. Fort Baker is also home to Cavallo Point, a luxury lodge with a LEED Gold Certification that Travel+Leisure named one of 10 “Must See Green American Landmarks.”

On a high point beyond Fort Baker, a perfectly positioned bench is an invitation to take a break and survey the marine panorama dotted with sailboats and kayakers. A curvy, tree-lined lane leads down into Sausalito, where we follow the waterfront to the heart of the village –a cluster of shops and bay-view restaurants.

Golden Gate Ferry

We typically forgo Sausalito’s small-town charm and make our way to the Golden Gate Ferry for a spectacular 30-minute cruise back to San Francisco. With feet up, cold beer in hand, we visually revisit our route and revel in 360 degrees of beauty.

Arriving at the Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco, we’re ready for a late lunch, and the edible options are most appetizing—fresh seafood from Hog Island Oyster Company, artisan cheese from Cowgirl Creamery, handmade empanadas from El Porteno, maybe a taste of chocolate from Scharffen Berger. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, the Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market is in full swing until 2 p.m., showcasing the best products of regional farmers and ranchers.

After grabbing a cuppa at Blue Bottle Coffee, browsing at Book Passage and assessing our level of fatigue, we either walk, cable car or taxi back to our hotel. The route for our San Francisco anniversary amble may be traditional, but the experience always offers novelty—and this year, a co-celebrant, the Golden Gate Bridge.

  Julie Snyder lives near Lake Tahoe, where her current pet project is Nevada Humane Society.  As a writer, editor and publisher, she’s contributed to a variety of lifestyle, in-flight and travel publications, and produced award-winning catalogs for Backroads travel company.  Among her passions are animal welfare, walking, travel and the Green Bay Packers.

Dexter Gordon. Photo by Herman Leonard, courtesy of Lush Life Gallery.

By David McKay Wilson

A day after San Francisco celebrated the Giants’ World Series victory with a ticker tape parade, reminders of their triumph remained. A huge orange-and-black banner declaring “Go Giants!” hung from Macy’s façade while sidewalk vendors by the Hotel Monaco near Union Square hawked t-shirts heralding the victory.

I’d come to the Monaco for a few days to research secondary education in the city’s Mission district, catch a one-man show on Woody Guthrie at Studio 250, sample the downtown nightlife, and take a spin over the Golden Gate to Marin County for a visit in San Rafael.

Hotel Monaco, San Francisco

The Monaco, a boutique Kimpton hotel on Geary Street was a delight. On the day of my arrival, I made it down from my sixth-floor suite for the daily wine reception at 5 p.m. In a high-ceilinged room off the lobby, where the fireplace blazed, we sampled Twisted’s  hearty 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel and its 2009 Pinot Grigio. The wine helped me unwind after a long day of coast-to-coast travel. So did the free, 15-minute chair massage by Brian Dudley, whose blend of Shiatsu and myofascial massage released the day’s tensions. I completed my entry into that very mellow California state-of-mind with a satisfying soak in my room’s Jacuzzi whirlpool before heading out to explore.

That night, I went up Geary to the Fillmore neighborhood, where the jazz scene flourished from the mid-1940s to the late 1950s, with Billie Holliday, Dexter Gordon, John Coltrane and Ella Fitzgerald often playing in local clubs. Then came the explosion of rock in the neighborhood in the 1960s, with Jerry Garcia, Janet Joplin and The Doors playing to sold out crowds at the Fillmore Auditorium.

Music still flourishes in the Fillmore neighborhood. Live Nation now owns the famed auditorium, and books top acts. Within a couple of blocks on Fillmore Street, you can hear jazz and r&b at Rassela’s, kick-back for standards at Sheba’s Piano Lounge, or dig in for some down-home blues at the Boom Boom Room.

There was a touch of ‘60s nostalgia on Fillmore  at Yoshi’s jazz club and Japanese restaurant when I visited in early November. Performing that night was pianist Ray Manzarek, a mainstay with The Doors in the 1960s, who has since moved on to jazz. Before an audience comfortably listening in tiered seating at the intimate club, Manzarek played complex duets with guitarist Roy Rogers, flavoring the evening with a few rifts from the songs he first played more than 40 years ago.

If you’re stopping at Yoshi’s, don’t miss the Lush Life Gallery, also located on the first floor of the 13-story Fillmore Heritage Center, a mixed-use development that includes the club and the Jazz Heritage Center, where the gallery features jazz-inspired art exhibits.

In previous trips to San Francisco, I’d gotten around without a car, taking the user-friendly BART system from the airport to downtown, and getting around by subway, bus, cab, or by walking up and down the San Francisco hills. You can get your workout just walking around. This time I rented a car for a visit to Marin County. While overnight parking downtown can be stiff – from $28 to $49 – driving around the city, and over the Golden Gate proved a breeze.

The large-scale street signs alerting you of upcoming intersections – before you get there – is one of the most car-friendly amenities for visitors I’ve seen. The one-way street patterns also provide easy navigation.

Frank Lloyd Wright designed the Marin County Civic Center.

The car propelled me over the bridge for a visit with my cousin in San Rafael, the lovely small city in Marin County, about 15 miles north of the bridge. It has a thriving downtown, with coffee shops, restaurants, clothing stores and the Folk Art Gallery, where I bought some Christmas ornaments hammered from tin in Mexico. One night, we dined at My Thai on Fourth Street, sampling spicy curry and noodle dishes. The next morning, we stopped by the farmer’s market at the Marin County Civic Center, the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed complex with a blue roof that stretches along a ridge overseeing a parking lot teeming each Sunday morning with produce and bakery vendors.

I drank sweet, warm Chai tea and munched on chocolate croissants, and my cousin made the rounds, loading up on greens and vegetables for the coming week. I would have liked to stay, but duty called in New York, and my plane was leaving the next morning.

David McKay Wilson has written on travel over the past 30 years as a freelance journalist, with his travel stories appearing in The Boston Globe, Philadelphia Inquirer, Hartford Courant, New Haven Advocate, and Gannett News Service. An avid cyclist and skier, Wilson enjoys vacationing in the mountains and by the sea. His articles on public affairs have appeared regularly in The New York Times. He’s currently the nation’s top freelance writer for university alumni magazines, with his work appearing in publications at 81 colleges and universities, including Harvard, Columbia, Dartmouth, Brown and the University of Chicago.

Don George.

Interviewed by Everett Potter

San Francisco’s Book Passage bookstore is one of the great American independent bookstores. Anyone with more than a passing interest in travel literature also knows it as the home of the Annual Travel Writers and Photographers Conference, which this year has expanded to cover food writers. At the helm of this lively festival is Don George, a travel writer and editor who is a contributing editor to National Geographic Traveler. George was the travel editor at the San Francisco Examiner & Chronicle, founded and edited the Wanderlust section of Salon.com, and most recently was Global Travel Editor at Lonely Planet Publications. He is the author of  The Lonely Planet Guide to Travel Writing and the editor of six literary travel anthologies, including The Kindness of Strangers, Tales from Nowhere, and By the Seat of My Pants. I caught up with Don to ask him about this year’s Conference, which runs from August 12-15, 2010.

Everett Potter: Don this year marks the 19th Annual Book Passage Travel, Food & Photography Conference. How did the conference originate?

Don George: The conference began when I was the Travel Editor at the San Francisco Examiner & Chronicle and Elaine Petrocelli, the owner of Book Passage bookstore in Corte Madera, Marin County, called with “a crazy idea”: How about, she said, putting together a multi-day conference for aspiring travel writers, with workshops and panels featuring notable writers, editors, agents and publishers? I loved the idea and invited Jan Morris to be our first guest of honor. She graciously agreed and the conference was born.

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This view for $99 a night via craigslist? Photo by Karen Glenn.

Interested in renting a one-bedroom cottage with a pool in West Palm Beach for $85 per night? Or maybe a two-bedroom apartment in the Pacific Heights neighborhood of San Francisco for $150 a night? Or perhaps a studio in Rome near the Trevi fountain for 85 euros ($119) per night? They were among the hundreds of vacation rentals posted today on craigslist.

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