Everett Potter's Travel Report

The Douro Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site

By Mary Alice Kellogg

It’s no secret that Port is Portugal’s most delish export, but a visit to the Douro Valley, from whence all port and wine blessings originate, is an eye-opener. Think Napa, but with centuries-old vineyards clinging to steep hills plunging down to the river, twisting narrow roads unclogged by traffic, and countryside to spare. A UNESCO World Heritage site and the oldest demarcated wine region in the world, it’s a 90-minute drive from Oporto and dotted with quintas, port wine estates where the latest generation of winegrowers produce port grapes and also a stunning array of red and white still wines. Past and future happily co-exist; for instance, older vineyards are planted horizontally, but newer ones are vertical, the better for precious water (watering vines is forbidden) to make it equally to all roots.

Aqua Pura

No need to pitch a tent, as the Douro boasts gracious world-class hotels. At the  AquaPura resort, perched on a hilltop surrounded by vineyards, the main house may date from the 1700s, but inside all is contemporary Zen cool. A modern spa room wing connects to an expansive, impressive spa for those who want to spend all their time in bathrobes, but every room in wings old and new (treatment rooms, too) has a view of river and vine-lined hills. Even the swimming pool has spirit of place, with lounge chairs upholstered in aubergine and deep plum pool tiles. (Drink port. Pretend to swim in it. Repeat.)

Qunita da Pacheca

Deeper into the countryside is Quinta da Pacheca, where the fourth generation of the Pimentel family produces some of the loveliest small-production still wines and private ports. A charming intimate gem, it has 15 stylish rooms tucked into the 18^th-century main house, surrounded by gardens and vineyards. The tasting room is always open (showcasing local crafts:  delicately woven straw hats, ceramics and handloomed fabrics), the sleek pale green and white dining room dishes up local specialties like roast leg of lamb with mint rice, just as your Portuguese granny would have prepared – if you had one – and with as much love.

Hugging the riverbank, the Vintage House Hotel is no longer a wine estate. But its 18^th century antiques-filled main house and lodges, refurbished two years ago  with all modern hotel bells and whistles subtly incorporated, preserve the spirit and tradition of the region. Gracious gardens and terraces ring a contemporary illusion swimming pool. In such a setting, I easily saw myself as a port wine mogul back in the day – and yes, there was at least one woman who fit that description. It felt like home.

A glass of the region's finest

I returned from the Douro Valley with precious bottles of small-production port impossible to find in the U.S. But more important, I came away with the realization that the region – and the country itself – does things right. Be proud of your patrimony, put your twist on the contemporary using your own creative resources, keep your traditions and sense of self. Have pride and resist being like everyone else who caves in the face of global sameness. And don’t let it go to your head. Portugal pulls this amazing feat off. I can’t wait to go back. Obrigado!

Mary Alice Kellogg, a New York-based writer and editor, is a recipient of the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Award for Consumer Reporting. A contributor to many national publications, including Travel + Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, Bon Appetit and GQ, she has reported from 120 countries and five of the seven seas to date… and counting.Visit MaryAlicekellogg.com

Majestic Cafe

By Mary Alice Kellogg

It’s difficult to fall in love with a city at first sight, but Oporto was an exception for me. A UNESCO Heritage site, it is one of the oldest cities in Europe, developing on the northern bank of the Douro River in the Middle Ages. And Oporto’s most famous export ain’t bad, either.

Made rich by the port wine lodges (headquarters/cellars) still lining one the river – Calem, Croft, Taylor’s, Cockburn’s et al., all with tasting rooms and tours  –  Oporto is filled with grand structures, banks and mansions reflecting its prosperous past, as well as historic working-class districts of narrow landmarked houses dating from the 15^th century. But this personable small city also has a contemporary vibe. A stroll on Sta. Catarina Street, with its cutting-edge boutiques and Belle Epoque Majestic Café (still filled with writers and artists as in days of yore), the vibrant clubs, discos, design cafes and lounges on Candido dos Reis, Miguel Bombarda and Galeria de Paris streets, which showcase a young, design-savvy energy with art galleries, bookstores and Portuguese retro-cool, all echo spirit of place.

Even a visit to a small summer street market shows the Oporto spirit. On impulse, I bought a gigantic bunch of fresh lavender (Portuguese lavender which, like its wonderful olive oil, is fragrant, distinct and unheralded). The central casting old-market-woman smiled, then chased after me with a large branch of lemon balm, swatting me gently on my forearm with the gift. As I left with my fragrant freebie, a passing family who also had some swatted me as well, and I swatted back. Thus perfumed, we all laughed and went our separate ways. Playful = Oporto.

Sao Bento train station in Oporto

As in Lisbon, it’s necessary to rest up, as nobody in Portugal seems to sleep and revels continue practically until sunrise. Laid-back ifestyle is everything here yet history never far behind, as a visit to the S. Bento train station – built in 1916 and featuring a soaring atrium with 20,000 tiles designed by Jorge Colaco featuring the city’s most important historical moments – will attest. Lunch on the outdoor riverside  terrace of D. Tonho – fresh fish in olive oil and garlic, a grilled octopus dish of which I still dream, chilled white port as the de riguer aperitif – had traditional culinary flair with a modern twist. Inside the 15^th century building all is contemporary chic within hallowed stone walls, a non-pretentious, delicious oasis that is pure Oporto.

The Yeatman

The newest entry in the local hotel sweepstakes is The Yeatman, a port-themed (of course; its owner also owns Taylor’s) hilltop hostelry where every room has a Portuguese wine sponsor for décor, a private balcony with dramatic views across the river to the historic center of Oporto, and glam to spare. The views would be enough, but what’s worth a visit is the restaurant, where Michelin-starred Chef Ricardo Costa creates a sophisticated seasonal locavore menu in a spanking-new dining room incorporating traditional Oporto architectural touches. The food and the amazing local wines were a fitting end to my visit.

Did I mention the view from the dining room – the port wine lodges below, the river, and the magical old city of Oporto on the opposite bank – also incorporated an Impressionist sunset? Now I did. That night, snug in my sleek Sheraton Oporto suite with views of city, river and sea beyond, I had no idea that my next destination would result in yet another Portuguese love affair.

For more info, go to Visit Portugal

Read the next Letter from Portugal

Mary Alice Kellogg, a New York-based writer and editor, is a recipient of the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Award for Consumer Reporting. A contributor to many national publications, including Travel + Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, Bon Appetit and GQ, she has reported from 120 countries and five of the seven seas to date… and counting.Visit MaryAlicekellogg.com

Lisbon street scene.

By Mary Alice Kellogg

Portugal is a country that enjoys its traditions without being chained to them, reveres its history, lives fully in the present with an enviable lifestyle and embraces the future with sophisticated savvy from lifestyle to design. What’s not to love?

After all, the Age of Discovery began here (shoutout to my homie Vasco DaGama!). And with all the historic and 21^st century wonders on offer — miracle of miracles — all this hasn’t gone to the populace’s heads. One would be hard-pressed to find a country with so much going for it where the entire citizenry is not jaded. That translates to not only a warm welcome, but a warm stay.

We know the disappointment of an homoginized destination, leading to the feeling one should have simply stayed home to shop at Chanel or drink at Starbucks. To them I say: go to Portugal, and begin by taking TAP, the national airline. The fleet is modern, the safety record pristine … and all staff and crew are dressed in the snappiest attire aloft or on the ground (a new Portuguese designer, of course). You’ll know you’re already in Portugal when the first course is a hearty, sophisticated soup. Beginning any meal with soup is a Portuguese tradition and embodies the country’s old-new spirit of place from the get-go.

To begin the adventure – and to discover the John Malkovich connection, without which no travelogue is complete – we land in Lisbon, where everything old is not new again, because there’s plenty of new stuff to compliment it.

Lisbon, a couple of centuries ago.

Built on seven hills on the shores of the Tagus river, today’s Lisbon is in the midst of a renaissance, the most recent in its 1000 years of history. (The world’s oldest bookstore? Check.) This city of 600,000 is chockablock with historic monuments, museums and whole neighborhoods designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites. Not hidebound by all this history, it has a thriving modern art and design scene, world-class contemporary architecture, rejuvenated industrial riverside neighborhoods, and more rockin’ nightlife than cities four times its size.

One of Lisbon's beloved trams.

Easily navigable by old-fashioned tram, bike (more than 20 miles of bike paths were built since 2009), horsedrawn carriage, Segway (Lisbon is obsessed with going green in all things), or – the best – on foot, Lisbon has an abundance of must-see monuments, of course. And they all have glorious views, from the hilltop 5^th century S. Jorge Castle to the riverside 14^th century Jeronimos Monastery,  a Moorish masterpiece across the road from where Vasco DaGama set off to find the sea route to India. You can’t turn around without encountering centuries of history, from the narrow 18^th century streets of the Alfama and Belem neighborhoods, ubiquitous elaborately tiled building fronts … even the iconic black and white stone city pavements, each an ornate work of art.

But you’d be hard-pressed to find a city that embraces the future as Lisbon has done. A modern Portuguese Style Offensive stretches from art and design galleries in the city’s oldest neighborhoods, to new riverfront museums and clubs, and the Gulbenkian Museum, a sleek gem showcasing decorative and fine arts from the 13^th century to present day. Parque das Nacoes (Nations Park), built for Expo 98, filled with impressive contemporary architecture is a vibrant  riverside neighborhood of culture, condos, conference facilities, and nightlife. Anchored by a soaring Calatrava-designed train station, it boasts the Lisbon Oceanarium, Europe’s largest aquarium.

John Malkovich at the Estoril Film Festival outside of Lisbon.

At night, the historic Bairro Alto nabe still rules, with the most bars and clubs in town, all packed with jovial groups spilling out onto narrow streets dotted with galleries, restaurants, cafes and boutiques. True to Lisbon spirit, the boutiques offer a spectrum of cutting-edge and traditional wares. So do the restaurants, and here is where John Malkovich comes in. With two local partners, he owns two of the hottest venues in town in the new riverfront warehouse district.

Pap' Acorda

Malkovitch’s partners also own Pap’Acorda in the Bairro Alto, where Lisbon style lives with a hip yet no-attitude young staff and diners a mix of local families, too-cool fashionistas, and celebrities. Housed in a 16^th century streetside building, with an interior that brings minimalist to a new level (save for the two landmarked 18^th century crystal chandeliers in the bar), one would expect contemporary cuisine. One would be wrong: this is the place to sample the best traditional dishes prepared simply and with love, including the richest dark-chocolate mousse on the planet. Really. Pure Lisbon all the way.

York House

York House, on the other hand, affords an opportunity to party like it’s 1606, which is when the main buildings were constructed as a convent. Converted to a hotel by two British ladies (hence the name) in 1880, it has been an elegant, intimate hideaway ever since. A hidden stone stairway leads up from the street to a lush terrace garden ringed by 33 luxe contemporary rooms that belie the gracious buildings housing them. Even if you can’t score one of the coveted rooms, do book for a terrace lunch or romantic dining hall dinner, as the chef is one of the more celebrated in town and the wine cellar boasts a stellar collection of Portuguese still wines and ports (doubles from 60 euros)

Speaking of celebrated chefs, Lisbon is welcoming a new star. Leonel Pereira’s Panorama restaurant, on the top floor of the Sheraton Lisbon, is not only the place to be seen and to see tout Lisbon gathering to enjoy the epynonomous views (it seems the TAP planes on final approach will land on the bar), but a must-dine oasis: contemporary cool with a provocative, innovative modern menu. Call it Luxe Locavore if you must but call for reservations.

Lisbon may be sophisticated, but its citizens are among the most warm and gracious on earth (for this experienced traveller, giving the Tahitians a run for their money). Lifestyle is all, and relaxed, day an night. Where else would the main boulevard – Avenida da Liberdade – be closed for a day so the populace could hold the world’s largest picnic? Whether it made the Guiness Book of Records or not, a good time was had by all.

Clube de Fado

And yes, an evening at a fado club is obligatory. This centuries-old music, unique to Lisbon, is drenched with emotion, with venerated older singers (think Frank Sinatra) and a new generation bringing a modern twist to this traditional form (think Beyonce) . There’s no better place to experience the fado spirit than at Clube de Fado in the Alfama district. In a cavernous dining room dating from the 15^th century, a small stage showcases established stars and young upstarts. Stay for dinner or drop by for drinks; you don’t have to know a word of Portuguese to understand the feelings and appreciate the music. Like fado itself, Lisbon continues to evolve.

Red the next Letter from Portugal

Mary Alice Kellogg, a New York-based writer and editor, is a recipient of the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Award for Consumer Reporting. A contributor to many national publications, including Travel + Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, Bon Appetit and GQ, she has reported from 120 countries and five of the seven seas to date… and counting.Visit MaryAlicekellogg.com