Tag Archive | "Africa"

The Interview: Paul Theroux

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Paul Theroux

Paul Theroux

Interview by Everett Potter

I can’t think of a better guide to Africa than the travel writer and novelist Paul Theroux. He went to Malawi in 1963 as a Peace Corps volunteer when he was 22 and traveled extensively through the eastern half of the continent to write the bestseller Dark Star Safari a decade ago. Now he’s back after a trek through West Africa, through some of the most hellish places on earth, writing about it in his new book, The Last Train to Zona Verde. The author of The Great Railway Bazaar and Riding the Iron Rooster discovers “cities that were indistinguishable from one another in their squalor and decrepitude.”  As in the best of his many books, Theroux convincingly takes you along for every manic bus ride. His wonderment is yours, whether he’s contemplating eating a flyblown leg of chicken, dealing with a ferocious Angolan border guard, or deciding that this time, he’s had quite enough. It’s a remarkable, teeth-gritting tale, and I caught up with him this week to ask him a few questions.

EP: Paul, has any other place you’ve traveled been quite as hellish as Angola?

PT: Yes – many but the place that stands out is Vietnam in 1973, when I took the train to Hue, the war was still hot but US troops had mostly withdrawn. A period of suspense and violence, which I wrote about in The Great Railway Bazaar.

EP: One of the revelations of “The Last Train to Zona Verde” is that all is not what it seems with the Jo/’hoansi in Namibia. But are there tribal peoples in Africa still living a life in the bush that is closer to the stone age than the 21st century?

PT: Not really. Virtually all peoples in Africa have contact with the delights of civilization, such as soldiers, missionaries, tax collectors and dictators.

EP: Early in the book, you say that “If I had a sense of foreboding about this trip, it was because travel into the unknown can also be like dying.” Is Africa an extreme version of this foreboding, since three people you meet in the course of writing the book do, in fact, die?

PT: I did have an eerie feeling, and it;s true that three people I came to like, who befriended me died. And now that number is four, because Vicki, a woman who ran a tiny guest house in a township outside Cape Town – she welcomed me – was stabbed to death by her husband not long ago.


EP: The singer Bono of U2 comes up for some barbed comments in the book – a “ubiquitous meddler,” you call him — and other do-gooders, charities and aid agencies fare no better. Why do these types get under your skin so much?

PT: Because to improve their image they present themselves as saviors in places that are quite capable of saving themselves, and they distort the reality of life in Africa. I wish they would either join the Peace Corps or else go away.

EP: You travel through parts of South Africa, Namibia and Angola on this trip, and visit “… futureless places … of stupefying disorder.” You also make an impassioned argument towards the end of the book about why enough is quite enough, that it’s time to go home and not continue further along the West African coast. But you also state early on that “Africa drew me onward because it is still so empty, so apparently unfinished and full of possibilities…” Do you still believe that?

PT: Yes, the great green heart of Africa is largely in its natural state, and there is always hope in wilderness.

EP: “The Last Train to Zona Verde” ends with you remarking on similarities between the red clay roads of the African bush and the  American South, and of the poor people who live in both places. Will you write about these Americans, and this part of the United States?

PT: I have a longing to look deeply into the rural south, the Deep South, and hope to find something to write about.

EP: You mention traveling in Africa with a shortwave radio, something I used to do years ago. I gave it up in the age of the Internet but do you still rely on BBC World Service and other stations to keep you connected when you’re off the grid?

PT: A small shortwave radio is a great friend, when you are in an outof the way place and want to know whats happening in the world. I am speaking of places without TV or internet connections, and there are many in Africa.

EP: I’m curious to know what you did upon leaving Africa. Did you go somewhere for R&R?

PT: Home is always R & R for me – after all, I live in Hawaii half the time and Cape Cod the rest.

EP: Are you still kayaking? I really enjoyed “The Happy Isles of Oceania” and shorter pieces you’ve done on kayaking off Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard.

PT: I was paddling off the North Shore of Oahu just the other day and in fact sighted some humpback whales in the distance. And it’s a satisfaction to me that The Happy Isles is still in print and finding new readers.

EP: This may be your last book on Africa, but will you write another travel book?

PT: I hope so, because the ambition to write one is an excuse to go to the ends of the earth.

West on Books: Paul Theroux’s African Valediction

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Reviewed by Richard West

Perils he sought not, but ne’er shrank to meet:

  The scene was savage, but the scene was new;

  This made the ceaseless toil of travel sweet.” (“Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage,” Byron)

For 50 years Paul Theroux has been a traveling man, and as dean of American travel writing, chronicled his wanderings in fifteen best-selling books. Like Childe Harold, for Theroux it has not been a question of happiness but the happiness of the quest. Occasionally, as in “The Kingdom by the Sea,” he has come across as ornery as a bunkhouse cook, but, for me, that has been part of the great charm found in his writings. Lovely prose, displaying the curiosity of great explorers, opinions!, chronicling the Sisyphrustrations of hard daily travels absent in “tourism” have been the admirable hallmarks of his travel narratives.

Ten years ago in “Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Cape Town” Theroux explored the right-hand-side of Africa. In his new “The Last Train to Zona Verde: My Ultimate African Safari” he resumes his trip in Cape Town and “after seeing how that city had changed in ten years, travel north in a new direction up the left-hand-side until I found the end of the line, either on the road or in my mind.” Both it turns out in this bitter-sweet wonderfully-crafted book that takes him from South Africa north through Namibia to the dreadful abyss of Angola. Energetic Paul Theroux has aged very well (he is 71), but much of the Africa he found in this new book is a violent trashcan of MRE’s (morally repugnant elites) or living-on-the-edge poor folk.

It starts well in Cape Town– improved townships, a booming economy, the enduring beauty of Table Mountain which holds more plant species than all of the British Isles—and lovely towns to the northwest like Citrusdal and Springbok. Namibian cities like Windhoek and Swakopmund are clean and orderly, reflecting their Germanic heritage. But look on their outskirts: hardscrabble gatherings  like Swakopmund’s Mondesa bleak township with its poverty, high HIV/AIDS infection rates, unemployment, and general neglect.

 And it gets worse the closer Theroux gets to Angola, the only African colony that began as a penal settlement. “Portugal’s Siberia” Theroux calls it, now obscenely rich ($40 billion annually) from off-shore oil and diamonds, yet remains a brutalized landscape with stumps of deforestation, burned-out tanks from a decades-long civil war, poisoned streams, no wild animals (all killed in the fighting or eaten by the hungry populace).  He gamely endures the squalor, an ATM fraud of $48,000, the rudeness and contempt of officials, the deaths of three friends (one beaten to death), inedible food, what sociologists call “challenging urban environments” and we call bad neighborhoods, as he sinks into a Lear-like lamentation at the ruination of his beloved Africa. By the end you picture our seasoned traveler with his head in his hands like Van Gogh’s portrait of Dr. Gachet.

“Zona Verde” is a euphemism for the bush, the non-urban outback Theroux loves the most. Yet this train-loving traveler refuses the trip: “Not this time. I had no desire to board the train. And, thinking it, I was joyous—a great relief to conclude that this was the end of my trip. No more…I felt beckoned home.” OWAWA, oh well, Africa wins again.

richard-west-300x225-150x1501   Richard West spent nine years as a writer and senior editor at Texas Monthly before moving to New York to write for New York and Newsweek. Since then, he’s had a distinguished career as a freelance writer. West was awarded the National Magazine Award for Reporting in 1980 and is a member of Texas Arts & Letters




Steve Jermanok’s Active Travels: Tracking Gorillas and Chimps in Uganda

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Gorillas in Uganda

Gorillas in Uganda

Fed a steady diet of bleak wildlife conservation news out of Africa, especially with regard to the increase in poaching elephants in Kenya and Tanzania, I was delighted to hear the latest news out of Uganda. The last census reports a 12% increase in the gorilla population. The survey found that there are now 880 gorillas at Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, up from 786 in 2010. The best way to celebrate that news is to get yourself over to Uganda and see the gorillas firsthand, an unparalleled travel experience. If you visit Bwindi in April and May, the $500 per day permit will be reduced to $350. To make the most of your time, consider Africa Adventure Consultants new 10-day Uganda Flying Safari. Eliminating many of the longer drives, the trip starts in the Kibale forest, where you spend two days viewing the chimps. Then it’s on to Queen Elizabeth National Park, where you can see over 95 recorded mammal species and enjoy a boat excursion that takes you for a close-up look at the largest concentration of hippos in the world (reported to be about 30,000). Finish your safari with 2 days of gorilla trekking at Bwindi. Now that’s a memorable trip!

steve  Steve Jermanok As a columnist for National Geographic Adventure, adventure travel expert at Budget Travel, and regular contributor on outdoor recreation for Outside, Men’s Journal, Health, and Sierra, Steve Jermanok has written more than 1,000 articles on the outdoors.He’s also authored or co-authored 11 books, including Outside Magazine’s Adventure Guide to New England and Men’s Journal’s The Great Life. His latest book is Go Now! Put Your Life on Pause and See the World. He’s currently an adventure travel expert at Away.com and blogs daily at  Active Travels.

Tour d’Afrique

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The Interview: Tour d’Afrique

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Meltdown Madness in Africa with Tour D'Afrique

Meltdown Madness in Africa with Tour D’Afrique

By Everett Potter

When I hear the words “bike tour,’ I usually think of a week of cycling in Provence, Vermont or Napa Valley. I picture relatively easy riding, incredible scenery and great food and wine, neatly packaged into a six-night trip by an adventure travel company.

What the words “bike tour” don’t conjure in my imagination is a four month trek from Cairo to Capetown or a 2,700 mile ride from Paris to Istanbul. These are rides where your mind and body are tested and where strenuous riding is often the rule, as are deep cultural encounters you’re unlikely to have on a six-day pedal.

The company that offers such extraordinary adventure experiences is Tour d’Afrique and I learned about them from a guy named Shanny Hill, whom I met at the Adventure Travel World Summit in Lucerne, Switzerland last October.

Shanny is the Project manager for the Toronto-based company and we recently had a chance to speak about the groundbreaking trips that his company offers.


Shanny Hill of Tour D'Afrique in Ethiopia

Shanny Hill of Tour d’Afrique in Ethiopia

EP: How did Tour d’Afrique Ltd begin?

SH: Tour d’Afrique Ltd was conceived in the late 1980’s when Henry Gold, the company’s Founder and Director, was managing an international NGO that delivered humanitarian assistance to disadvantaged communities in Ethiopia and other African countries. His original concept was to produce inexpensive, rugged mountain bikes in Africa, for Africans, as a low cost solution to local transportation needs, and to market this new bicycle by organizing a cycling race across the continent – the Tour d’Afrique.

While the mountain bike project did not take off, the pioneering vision of the Tour d’Afrique proved irresistible. In early 2002 Henry and Michael de Jong began the preparations in earnest, undaunted by enormous skepticism and the mountain of logistical challenges to be overcome, and, on January 15, 2003, thirty-three cyclists saddled up at the Pyramids at Giza and started pedaling south. Four months later, with Table Mountain and Cape Town in sight, they celebrated the realization of their dream and the establishment of the Guinness World Record for the fastest human powered crossing of Africa.

Since then our unique little company has grown, in leaps and bounds, through many trials and tribulations. The Tour d’Afrique has been recognized as the world’s longest and most challenging stage race. Following in its spirit, several more continental and sub-continental cycling expeditions have been undertaken,

All told more than 800 intrepid souls have now completed one of our epic trans-continental rides. Through our Foundation, and the donations of many of our clients, more than 2000 bicycles have been distributed to health care and community development workers in Africa and India.


The Orient Express Cycling Expedition, from Paris to istanbul, with Tour D’Afrique


EP: Give us an example of some of your trips and their length.

SH: Here are three of our upcoming trips. The North America Epic is just as it sounds – an epic cycling ride across all of our great continent from Anchorage to Mexico City. The intrepid cyclists from all across the globe will cycle 7,000 miles through Canada and the USA, and then along stunning Baja Peninsula before returning to mainland Mexico to cycle the final leg into Mexico City. This epic journey under human power takes 4 months and gets underway in Anchorage on Independence Day.

The Orient Express Cycling Expedition follows in the spirit of the luxury train line that once crossed Europe from Paris to Istanbul. But this is no luxury tour of Europe. We will be pedaling our way through each day and each town – covering 60 miles each day and staying in campsites and 2 and 3 star hotels to rest our heads in some of Europe’s hotspots – like Ulm, Vienna, Bratislava, and Budapest. This 2,700 miles journey takes 6 weeks during July and August. We arrive in Istanbul on August 25 after a ferry ride down the Bosphorus Strait. We take advantage of Europe’s rich history, wonderful cycling routes, explore its great cities, and its fabulous countryside scenery, at a pace much slower than the Orient Express trains of the past.

Our inaugural Bamboo Road Cycling Expedition will become the mother tour of South East Asia. This truly trans-continental trip will take participants from the metropolis of Shanghai, thru southern China, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, and then ending in the city-state of Singapore. For several years now, SE Asia has been a popular destination for cycling tourists, and we want to offer a grand tour that can encompass a great deal of the region in one tour.

EP: Who’s going on these trips, how many riders, what are their ages, and how experienced are they as riders?

SH: The people who are participating in our tours are from all walks of life it seems. From nuclear physicists, to truck drivers, and teachers, they have many varied professions. Though we typically have 60 to 70 % males on our tours, we are increasingly seeing more and more women participating and more and more nationals from all over the world, including Australia, New Zealand, UK, Canada, and the USA. We have also had Brazilians, Egyptians, South Africans, Taiwanese, and many other nationals from emerging markets.

The skill level and experience of our participants is also quite varied. We have serious racers, and fit seniors, to first time cycle tourists who come on our tour and treat it as their own weigh loss program. Participants are as young as 18 and have been as old as 71. We do our best to accommodate all that wish to participate with staffing, cooks, and support vehicles working to create a framework built to give them the best chance at completing each day’s ride.

Chow times on the North American Epic, Tour D'Afrique

Chow times on the North American Epic, Tour d’Afrique

EP: How about accommodations and meals?

SH: Most of our tours are a mixture of camping and simple hotels. Our new tour of South East Asia, along with a few others, are all hotel or indoor accommodation. We choose simple and practical hotels when staying indoors. While camping in some of our more remote locations in Africa and Asia, we do some rough camping where our support trucks, and the water and supplies they carry are all that we have to sustain us for the night.

We do not compromise on is food. We have used trained chefs on many of our tours, because we know the importance of a tasty and nutritious meals at the end of a long day of cycling. You don’t ever want to have a hungry cyclists on a tour.


EP: Are there guides along for the entire ride or do I need to be proficient in map reading and another language or two?

SH: We have tour support staff that help create a framework of support. The style of our tours means that we also expect the participants to be involved in the process and involved in making the tour a success. This can mean that the participants will be using maps at times to double check the directions given by the tour leader, helping the chef chop vegetables to prepare for dinner, or helping others in the group with their bags perhaps. The idea is that on an expedition of this nature, its necessary that staff and clients work together as a team.

With that said, we do provide a great deal of staff support – with most of our longer expeditions having a full time medic, chef, bike mechanic, drivers, and tour leader.

EP: What sort of training regimen is required for these rides?

SH: We send out training tips to our registered riders. The most common thing that interrupts riding on tour is soreness. Sore knees, sore backs, sore butts…. The best way to combat this is to ride regularly in the run up to the tour. At a minimum we suggest you start some dedicated training 3 months before the tour starts.

Riding at least three times a week for a minimum of two hours each time. This could be in the form of cross training or bike rides at a steady pace. This will get you to the tour start with a base of fitness and well adjusted to your bike.


EP: You’ve got five levels of difficulty –easy, moderate, average, challenging and hard. How hard is “hard?”

SH: Good question. Hard can be very hard.

If I think back to my toughest days on one of our tours, it would be in Northern Kenya – part of the ‘Meltdown Madness‘ section that is rated as hard. Picture yourself riding in the rocky desolate landscape of the Dida Galgalu desert for 60 to 70 miles in 100 degree heat with no shade over a terribly rutted road. Now picture doing that for 5 days straight.

The truth is that this section described here has actually recently been paved and we may soon drop the rating down a notch to ‘difficult’

There are other examples I could come up with, but the truth about these ‘hard’ sections is they are often the most memorable, and people who at the start of a tour were struggling through the easiest of stages, find themselves stronger and more determined and ready to face these hard stages halfway through the journey.

We also have many sections with much lower difficulty rating, and so the ratings scale is definitely worth checking out.


North American Epic, Tour D'Afrique

North American Epic, Tour d’Afrique


EP: Tell me more about the North American Epic.

SH: The North American Epic was redesigned for 2013 to become a truly unique and truly trans-continental tour. In 2011 it was an west to east tour – from San Francisco to St. John’s, Newfoundland. This was a good route, but not quite exotic enough for our taste, and not truly a crossing of all of the North American continent.

Now with the new route from Anchorage to Mexico City, participants can see a line on a map stretching all the way across our continent. With many other tours being offered across the US or Canada from West to East, this tour give people a chance to cover the continent North to South.

Interestingly, those that have already signed up to participate are not North Americans, but people from all across the globe that want to come here and experience these places from the seat of their bicycle. They are from Norway, Britain, Finland, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa to name a few.

All the tour dates, details, and prices can be found here: http://tourdafrique.com/tour-overview/?t=north-american-epic

EP: Can you do parts of the North American Epic, if you do don’t have time for the entire journey?

SH:  Of course. All our expeditions are split into 2 and 3 week segments to allow people to be part of the experience while not committing to the long time require to complete the whole expeditions. The North American Epic is split into 8 tantalizing sections. With names like ‘Land of the Midnight Sun‘ and ‘Alaska Highway’ and ‘Canyonlands‘ interested cyclists are sure to find a section that suits their interests and timeframe.

We have had some people do a section at a time and eventually completing one of our trans-continental tours over the course of several years.


Tour d'Afrique riders in India

Tour d’Afrique riders in India


EP: Any new trips planned for Tour d’Afrique?

SH: Yes, we always have new projects in the works. The Bamboo Road Cycling Tour described earlier is one, and in 2014 we will start where that tour left off and launch the Trans-Oceania from Singapore to Sydney, Australia – crossing the outback and cycling through Adelaide, Melbourne on our way to the big finish at the Opera house in Sydney.

And, with the completion of this tour, we will have completed all the tours we needed to be able to offer the 7 Epics Challenge – a global cycling challenge for the truly crazy cyclists. A series of 7 supported cycling epics that touch every corner of the globe.


Visit Tour D’Afrique for more info


Travel Evangelist in Africa: Kenya

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Michaela, with Michael at the controls, somewhere over Kenya

“Travelers come to Africa for the animals,

they fall in love with the landscape,
but they come back for the people.”
Anna Trzebinski, designer and lodge owner, Kenya
Story and photos by Michaela Guzy
Keeping true to the theme of my blog, everyday in Kenya, I have had the pleasure of meeting someone remarkable and it’s been nothing short of inspiring.  On April 13th, Michael Dyer, touched down in his private aircraft to pick me up and personally escort me to Borana Ranch & Safari Lodge.  Michael comes from a long line of entrepreneurs and philanthropists.  Overachieving seems to run in his family too—from his amazing wife, Nicky, his brothers and his cousin Ian Craig.
Michael and Nicky, opened Borana Ranch & Safari Lodge on the family owned land in 1990, which happened to be the first eco-lodge in the area.  The grounds of Borana are breathtakingly beautiful and animals are everywhere—precisely what you would like to see on safari.  A giraffe literally stared in through my window while I was having a coffee and I could see the cape buffalo at the lake below.

On horseback at Borana

I was impressed in speaking with the hotel manager, Flick Woodhouse, to hear that Borana actually offered a plethora of experiences beyond game drives.  Sad as it is to say, I was getting a bit tired of bouncing around in a safari vehicle.  In addition to safari, bush dinners and visits to the local village, Borana has horse back riding, mountain biking (not for the faint hearted), the Ngare Ndgare Forest where you can go trout fishing or see the endangered rhino.
While the adventure offerings at Borana are vast, I was beginning to crave some human connection.  And boy did I come to the right place! For over 20 years, Michael has dedicated himself to helping teach and implement the importance of preservation, conservation, working with and supporting the community.  So much to my delight, Michael and Nicky also offer guests the opportunity to visit the tannery, where they employ and then teach local  disabled or blind  people the craft.

Dentist at the clinic.

And given their dedication to the local people, I shouldn’t have been surprised to find that they also started a mobile medical clinic eight years ago.  They employ two nurses and a driver to visit the local villages across the Laikipia region, Monday-Friday.  These hardworking women treat over 20,000 patients per year—from vaccinations, HIV/AIDS education and notably planned parenthood.

An observer at the Unity Cup

While these projects were impressive, I was both honored and floored when Michael and Nicky kidnapped me for a day.  On the very bumpy, curvy drive, we passed through multiple villages and by people who had literally nothing.
Imagine my surprise when our final destination turned out to be a soccer field (as we say in the US, or football everywhere else in the world).
At the match, I learned that Michael was one of the founders of the Laikipia Wildlife Forum which is a member driven organization that brings together land owners and resource users (from large-scale ranchers to small scale farmers) to tackle the challenges in the Laikipia ecosystem.
And the LWF  as it turns out, is one of the key sponsors of the “Laikipia And Beyond Unity Cup Football Tournament,”   held on a biennial basis.    LUC was created to utilize the power of sport  to bring together the diverse communities within Laikipia in a constructive spirit of peace and harmony, to build environmental awareness and deliver free health care to the communities of Laikipia.
Two years ago, the LUC brought together 32 teams in remote rural locations throughout the district during 5 separate three day weekends, thousands of people participated in environmental education sessions and activities, ranging from tree planting, town ‘clean up’s’ to water conservation activities and over 12,000 people received free medical treatment, primarily women and children.
At the game, the players, the volunteers and the children all stepped back from their daily hardship to enjoy being together.  Post game, Michael took me back to visit the medical clinic.  The lines were endless for the free aid, but it was so wonderful to see the local people taking advantage of the services provided by the volunteer doctors.  I have immense respect for the brave patients who literally had their teeth pulled in front of hundreds of people without any painkillers.  There was never screaming, only smiles, “asante sana” (thank you) and handshakes.
No matter where we walked, players, kids, patients, doctors and the organizer of SAFE, a show put on to communicate the importance of unity pre-election (picture of SAFE truck below), greeted Michael with smiles and hugs.  Even the cooks preparing dinner for the players happened to be cutting up some sheep that Michael had (of course) donated for the weekend.
While I may not have seen all the wildlife and adventure Borana has to offer, meeting Michael and his family, learning about the work that they do to give back, was one of the most inspiring experiences for me to date.  Please take some time to learn more about the Laikipia Wildlife Forum and the powerful impact the “Unity Cup” has on bringing people together through sport and for such a powerful purpose.
Borana isn’t such a bad place to vacation either. If you have a chance to pick Michael  and Nicky’s brain during your visit, I highly recommend doing so. Their energy and dedication is truly awe-inspiring.  It’s no surprise that they bring smiles to the faces of everyone, including me, around them.  I hope you have the chance to meet them and experience the great work that they do.
More about Laikipia Wildlife Forum, the Zeitz Foundation, the “Unity Cup” and other major sponsors:
Borana Lodge, Laikipia, North Central Kenya:  Rustic luxury lodges.  Built in 1993, the first eco-lodge in the Laikipia region and the first time I’ve had a door and windows since I  left Nairobi!  Outdoor seating area over looking the watering hole.  Pool, village and school visits, spa treatments in room,  horse back riding, hikes, mountain biking and game drives.  Also, Pride Rock which inspired Lion King is a short drive from the lodge.  There is a pride of 18 lions on the ranch.  Ngare Ndare Forest for hikes and rhino spotting.  Great place for families.  Spotty Wi-Fi in room.    Safari Link or Air Kenya to the Lewa airstrip.
  Michaela S Guzy most recently served as Vice President, overseeing the travel and development of new initiatives for all American Express Publishing brands – Travel+Leisure, Food&Wine, Executive Travel, Departures and Black Ink.

Travel Evangelist in Africa

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By Michaela S. Guzy

Five days and counting until my two month solo journey across the second largest continent in the world!  This will be my first trip to eastern and southern Africa.  On Friday, South African Airways will fly me via Joberg, South Africa as the locals say and onto Nairobi,Kenya—it’s going to be a looooong couple of days.

I will spend almost a month in Kenya.  In early May, I will emerge from the bush, wash the dirt out of my teeth and hair to spend my birthday in Cape Town, South Africa(and no, I won’t tell you how old I am). Then on to Namibia, back to South Africa for Indaba (Africa’s largest trade show) and then a two day rest at Karkloff (unlimited spa treatments and a wildlife reserve in KwaZula Natal) before heading back into the wild…Botswana, Zambia and Mozambique.

Lepayon, my driver and guide

A little bit about me and the mission…

In the spring of 2011, I joined the Adventure Travel Trade Association, a global membership organization to more than 700 responsible businesses, destinations and media who advocate for sustainability and justice worldwide, on an advisory meeting in the state of Chiapas, Mexico.  When we touched down in a helicopter inLa Palma,Chiapas we were greeted by the children of the town. Since then I haven’t been able to stop thinking about how to marry the world of luxury travel in which I work and helping the local people who make each destination so special.

In an interesting turn of events, a corporate reorganization left me with the time, means and passion to make it happen.  I contacted Africaspecialist, Askari Travel to help me, a solo female traveler, plan my epic journey across Africa.   I will be exploring the lodging, food, wine and beaches, locate the BIG Five on safari, but most importantly the people who make each place unique.  Whenever I return from a trip, it’s always the human connection that serves as my favorite memory.  Tourism is the world’s largest industry and has the power to help people in need through sustainable initiatives.  Luxury can have a conscience.  And who isn’t interested in knowing how these safari lodges create such gourmet meals without running water?

Lepayon's family



Reporting in live from Joy’s Camp in the Shaba Territory of Northern Kenya, named after the infamous Joy Adamson who reared the orphaned lion, Elsa and later the leopard Penny.  Joy was also author to several books, including, Queen of Shaba.

My "living room" at Sarunni Samburu

 Saruni, Samburu is:

-  a luxurious tented lodge

- with delicious Italian food, the owner Riccardo hails from Italy

- surrounded by some of the most ruggedly beautiful mountains and bush

- with five species that can only be found in Eastern Africa  (the Beisa Oryx, the Reticulated Giraffe,  Somali Ostrich, Grevy Zebra and Gernuck)

BUT…what makes it truly unique is the dedication to the local community, through employment, co-operatives and renting the land from the people.


 Michaela S Guzy most recently served as Vice President, overseeing the travel and development of new initiatives for all American Express Publishing brands – Travel+Leisure, Food&Wine, Executive Travel, Departures and Black Ink.

In the Land of the Maasai

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On the road in Kenya

Photos and story by Rob Holmes & Jenny Ersbak

Note: Green Living Project is in Africa, producing six new films across Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and D.R. Congo,  documenting and showcasing  a diverse mix of leading international sustainability-related initiatives 

Kenya is one of the most densely populated countries inAfrica– 40 million strong and growing. Nairobialone is home to 4 million people.  So it’s no surprise when we hit bumper-to-bumper traffic barely a mile outside of the airport.  No complaints from the crew though.  We’re happy to take in the spectacle of the Monday morning commute.  Bikers, walkers, buses, trucks, newspaper peddlers, mothers with bundled infants, fruit vendors and sunglass hawkers –Nairobihas it all and then some.

We’re headed south in a rickety 6-seater minivan toward the famous Masai Mara.  A safari lover’s dream, the 583 sq mile National Reserve and adjoining conservancies are home to some of the world’s most impressive and iconic wildlife.

Nestled smack dab in the middle of it all is Naboisho Conservancy; the brainchild of Basecamp Foundation and our home away from home for the next 3 days.   The Foundation is a champion for sustainable tourism development in the region and works closely with the local Maasai communities.  We’re excited to dig deep in to the pivotal issues surrounding the conservancy and the region as a whole.

We hunker down for the drive.  “3 hours on flat, 3 hours on bumps,” our driver tells us.  A little vague, but we get the gist.  It’s going to be a long day.  We brace for the journey ahead, but the excitement and anticipation of what’s to come is undeniable.  This is Africa, after all.


In Maasai, naboisho means “coming together”.  It’s a fitting name for a place that values the input and voices of the local communities.  The establishment of Naboisho Conservancy can be credited in large part to Basecamp Foundation, a non-profit organization that is revolutionizing the sustainable tourism model.

The Foundation established the conservancy in 2010 in partnership with 500 Maasai landowners.  The agreement was simple: lease Basecamp the land; earn a guaranteed monthly income.  The combined plots of land created a new conservation zone, and the Naboisho Conservancy was born.

But the Basecamp concept doesn’t end with the protection of land and wildlife.  The organization’s reach goes much farther, in to the communities themselves.

While Basecamp’s approach is anchored in sustainable tourism, they are quick to acknowledge that partnerships with the community and like-minded organizations are crucial in addressing the challenges of the region.


Rob Holmes of Green Living Project with Maasai women.

Enter Koiyaki Guiding School. The vision: to train and equip local Maasai with the skills to become top-notch safari guides, while simultaneously creating income opportunities and conservation awareness. The training is sponsored by Basecamp and the school has become the focal point for conservation education in the Mara.

Meet Agnes, a 24-year old Maasai girl from nearby Amboseli.  Agnes is a recent graduate of the Koiyaki Guiding Schooland the first female student ever to enroll.  Immediately following her graduation, Agnes was invited to join the Basecamp team as a guide.  She politely declined the offer, saying her family was expecting her at home… could she come back in three days?  Her instant employment is significant considering the cultural implications of what Agnes has overcome.

The suppression of women in Maasai culture is slowly becoming a thing of the past, but traditionally, women were never expected to play a significant role outside of their domestic duties.  Men ran the show.  But the times, they are a-changin’.

Basecamp has been instrumental in providing job creation opportunities for women throughout the Mara.  From handicraft projects to a community managed micro-finance group, women are finding their voice.  But more importantly, others are listening.

“These women are becoming change agents in their community,” says Dickson Ole Kaelo, Project Manager of Basecamp Foundation.  “It’s exciting to bring real solutions to real people.”  Agnes continues to educate her fellow females on sustainable income opportunities via community presentations and outreach.

Girl power – don’t it feel good.

 To be continued ….

The Green Living Project’s mission is to educate and inspire individuals and communities to live a more sustainable lifestyle through stories focused on unique and diverse examples of sustainability from around the world.

Rob Holmes is the founder and president of GLP. Jenny Ersbak is project manager of GLP.

Active Travels: Micato’s Elite Running Safari in Kenya

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By Steve Jermanok

Named the World’s Best Safari Outfitter by readers of Travel & Leisure, Micato always seems to come up with something original each year. In 2012, the Kenyan-based owners are teaming with some of the country’s best-known athletes to create an elite running vacation. Your host is Kip Keino, two-time Olympic Gold Medalist, who will introduce you to his Olympic training center and hometown of Kapsabet. Expect to run with some of the finest runners in the country today, including the former world record holder for the New York Marathon, Paul Tergat. This being Micato, you can be assured that you’ll be resting your weary body at some of the finest resorts in Africa, no doubt surrounded by the wildlife of the Great Rift Valley.


  Steve Jermanok As a columnist for National Geographic Adventure, adventure travel expert at Budget Travel, and regular contributor on outdoor recreation for Outside, Men’s Journal, Health, and Sierra, Steve Jermanok has written more than 1,000 articles on the outdoors.He’s also authored or co-authored 11 books, including Outside Magazine’s Adventure Guide to New England and Men’s Journal’s The Great Life. His latest book is Go Now! Put Your Life on Pause and See the World. He’s currently an adventure travel expert at Away.com and blogs daily at Active Travels.

West on Books: Crossing the Heart of Africa

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Crossing the Heart of Africa

Reviewed by Richard West

Are you about to get married? Be careful what you read.  In a book on language evolution, Julian Smith, soon to wed Laura, his girlfriend of seven years,  ran across  a paragraph about Ewart Grogan’s 4,500-mile walk in the late 19th-century  from Cape Town to Cairo, the first human to traverse the length of Africa . Why? To prove to his prospective father-in-law he was worthy enough to marry daughter Gertrude, Ewart  being an adventurous –but-penurious young  chappie, Gertrude being wealthy and above his station.

An accomplished biologist and journalist, Smith had no in-laws worried about the merger. He was the problem.  Like many a prospective groom, he fretted about…wed lock. Commitment.  Life ever after preciously tempoed as a cotillion. Parenthood. So before crossing the Rubiconsciousness stream of marriage—Shazam!—why not retrace Ewart Grogan’s route through eight countries of East Africa, not only to highlight this forgotten explorer’s remarkable feat,  but prove to himself life held further adventures. Thus his new book, Crossing the Heart of Africa: The Odyssey of Love and Adventure.

Goodbye Laura, hello damp-towel-smelling Beira, Mozambique’s second largest city, also the start of Grogan’s trip, though Smith had to manage without the Englishman’s 150 porters and had only two months before the wedding, not two years.  From here north Smith endured the usual  trials of African travelers (not tourists):  days hotter than dollar chili, dust, riding buses filled to the point of metal fatigue,  insectile bedding,  food he despised like Beethoven would Sid Vicious.

And too many frustrating instances to count that brought to mind an acronym familiar to all African travelers: OWAWA, oh, well, Africa wins again.

But he did it with anchoritic zeal and the patience of old wallpaper while stumbling upon many kind people and earthly wonders.  I’ll bet he didn’t know Lake Malawi has more species of fish (1,000+) than any other in the world; or that Lake Tanganyika, only 45 miles across, would stretch from New York to Charlotte, N.C.;  or get to see, face to face in Rwanda’s Parc National Des Volcans, one of the world’s 700 remaining mountain gorillas. And he must have felt a sense of history squatting under the mango tree where Stanley famously met Livingstone in November, 1871, near the Tanganyikan lake port of Kigoma.

Like Homer’s Odysseus, Smith on his way home to his own Penelope avoided the Lotus Eaters (drugs), the Sirens (whores), a cannibalistic Cyclops (though Grogan fought his way past warlike Congolese  whose tribal name translated as “ eaters of flesh”), and goddesses like Calypso urging him to stay awhile.  But thanks to 21st century unpleasantness—the ongoing genocidal civil war in Sudan—he didn’t reach Cairo as did Grogan. What can’t be ended must be mended so 48 hours after reaching Juba in Southern Sedan, realizing farther travel was foolhardy, he was flying home to Penelope’s Portland, Oregon.

Grogan married his Gertrude two years after his adventure, honeymooned in Paris, and wrote his widely popular “From The Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa From South To North” before settling in  Kenya.  He finally died, age 92, in 1967, 24 years after his beloved Gertrude.  Julian Smith married his beloved Laura 107 years and nine days after Ewart’s ceremony.  To the Smiths we offer a popular toast of 19th-century Anglo explorers of Africa: “Broth to the ill, stilts to the lame.”

Richard West spent nine years as a writer and senior editor at Texas Monthly before moving to New York to write for New York and Newsweek. Since then, he’s had a distinguished career as a freelance writer. West was awarded the National Magazine Award for Reporting in 1980 and is a member of Texas Arts & Letters.