Emirates New Zealand, one of the contenders for America’s Cup, in San Francisco Bay.

This summer’s 34^th competition offers the best spectator viewing in the race’s 162-year history

By John Grossmann

Summer in San Francisco, always a perfect time for a planned or spur-of-the-moment escape from hazy, hot weather in most of the nation, boasts an even greater allure this year.  Starting July 5^th, and running deep into September, the city by the bay will host the 34^th America’s Cup, a storied competition older than the modern Olympics, and do so in unprecedented fashion. 

All previous America’s Cup courses have been set a mile or more off-shore, but this year’s qualifying rounds for the challenging teams and finals, pitting the semi-final winner against defending champion Oracle Team USA, are being held right in San Francisco Bay–providing not only the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz and the city’s skyline as backdrops, but for the first time in America’s Cup history, offering intimate, on shore views of a competition that some are comparing to “NASCAR or Formula One on water.”

To date, only those aboard boats far from shore in the six previous host cities (New York, New York; Newport, Rhode Island; Fremantle, Australia; San Diego, California; Auckland, New Zealand; and Valencia, Spain) have watched America’s Cup competition with the naked eye.  This summer, however, glimpses of the race will be possible even from many a San Francisco hilltop.  On Nob Hill, from a coveted window seat at the 19^th floor Top of the Mark at the InterContinental Mark Hopkins Hotel (www.intercontinentalmarkhopkins.com), or from one of the hotel’s even-numbered 18^th floor suites, you’ll catch a surprisingly good view of the colorful sails of the high-tech catamarans–in part, due to allowable design choices invoked by the current cup holder, Oracle’s owner Larry Ellison. 

Oracle, Larry Ellison’s defending boat in America’s Cup in San Francisco this summer.

 In a controversial move, Ellison doubled the size of the boats. This year’s 72-foot catamarans will fly carbon fiber sails as high as a 13-story building. Accordingly, the costs for a country to field a challenging team have likewise skyrocketed, to $8 million per boat and many times that overall. This explains why only three teams will vie in the early round robin races known as the Louis Vuitton Cup to face Oracle Team USA in September’s best of 17 races:  Sweden’s Artemis Racing, Emirates Team New Zealand, and Italy’s Luna Rossa.  Though fielding fewer boats, this year’s America’s Cup will not lack visual excitement.  The first of four turns on the course will swing the speeding sailboats less than two hundred yards from shore, hard by some of the bleachers erected for the occasion.  Here, by the bay, the race will be seen as never before.

“I think you’re going to appreciate the size and scale and speed of the boats a lot better in person than you will on television,” says Peter Rusch, an America’s Cup spokesman.  “It’s one thing to watch NFL games on television, and you can argue you get a better view with instant replays and such, but if you’re close up at an NFL stadium and your hear the collisions and the grunts and see the size of the players and the speed, that’s an appreciation that television just doesn’t convey.”

The boats, Rusch says, will be traveling at nearly 50 miles per hour, close to highway speed.  “No [other] boats do that,” says Rusch.  “To see that in person—the spray coming off—and see the size. These wind sails are 130 feet tall. A major turn requires massive coordination among all 11 crewmembers. These boats are also 60 feet wide—and when the boat makes its turn, these guys have to switch sides—so they’re running across the trampoline that connects the two hulls.

Luna Rossa, the Italian contender in America’s Cup

“It’s really a huge intersection between the cutting edge technology that’s used to design and engineer and build these boats and the skill and athleticism of the sailors in harnessing that power. The boats generate an incredible amount of power and are incredibly complicated to turn around the corners.  It’s not possible unless you’ve got the very best people doing it. It’s a little like a Formula One race car.  You can drive a five speed all you want, but there are very few people who could get into a Formula One car and go around those tracks even at a quarter of the speed the race car drivers do.   These boats are the same.  You could take 11 of the best club sailors. They wouldn’t even be able to move the boat, essentially.”

Not surprisingly, seats in many of the best viewing spots are selling quickly.  To view the race schedules and various seating choices as well as performers (Sting, Steely Dan, Weezer and others) appearing in a waterside America’s Cup stadium go to: www.americascup.com/experience. For those thinking of a San Francisco trip and taking in a race or two, here’s a preview of some of the viewing options:

On high, far from shore

Book a room at the InterContinental Mark Hopkins Hotel atop Knob Hill, on the California Street cable car line.  Built in 1926 on the site of the mansion of railroad magnet Mark Hopkins, founder of the line that would become the Southern Pacific, the hotel offers several high-floor suites with good, if distant, views of much of the race waters.  More panoramic views await higher up at the iconic Top of the Mark sky lounge, famous for its 100 different martinis. 

 On shore, in America’s Cup grandstands

The Deck, with 1,250 seats, will offer the most desirable and expensive tickets, with prices starting at $25 early in July, rising to  $130 for the Cup Finals. “This is our highest-end grandstand location,” says Ryan Carroll, a spokesman for America’s Cup Spectator Experiences. “They’ll have the nicest seats, with a back and armrest, and there will be a roped off area behind with a private lounge and concessions and private restrooms.  Plus here, you can take alcohol back to your seats.”

Race Course Bleachers.  Only available for the Louis Vuitton Cup Finals (starting August 17^th) through the America’s Cup Finals.  Even without upgraded seats and private concessions,  these tickets will be snapped up by avid race fans, as they’ll offer the closest shoreline views of the competition.  Prices start at $70.

West Grandstands.  Also available only for the Louis Vuitton Finals and America’s Cup Finals.  Prices will start at $50.  After the Race Course Bleachers, these 2,500 seats will provide the next best view of the first turn.

East Grandstands. These 1,250 seats will be the most affordable America’s Cup tickets.  Starting at $15 for early July races, they’ll have access to a lounge with private concessions and restrooms.  The views will be similar those of the adjacent Deck seats, but lack the extra amenities. 

On shore, atop Pier 39

These rooftop accommodations for 750 will be offer the most luxurious and costliest single day tickets.  Prices start at $300, beginning with the Cup Finals in September.  The admission ticket covers all food and beverages, including an open bar. The viewing deck will have a bar and food service, lounge chairs, and TVs broadcasting live coverage and commentary of the race.     

On the water but docked.  Spectators can also head for Pier 45 and board the old naval warship, SS Jeremiah O’Brien, which served at Normandy.  Ticket prices start at $110.  The ship, which is now a museum, will remain docked, but offers good views of turns two and four, not to mention a head-on view of Alcatraz. Below deck, there’ll be concessions and monitors for viewing the race.  It will not be ADA accessible.

Out on the bay, aboard a motorboat or sailboat

The most intimate race views of all can be enjoyed out on the bay, literally on the periphery of the course, aboard a small flotilla of race-accredited sailboats and motorboats.  Prices start higher than for all but the Pier 39 Rooftop experience, but boats positioned near turns two, three, and four will have across-the-boulevard-like views of the most riveting action on the course.  Options range from a 12-person catamaran and a small motor yacht for 16 to 20 to retired ferryboats.  Other choices include FDR’s private yacht, The Potomac, and a replica of the schooner America, which won the first America’s Cup race in 1861 against the British around the Isle of Wight. For all the on water choices go to:  www.americascup.com/en/experience/spectator-tickets/on-water-viewing

  John Grossmann has written about food and travel for Gourmet, Cigar Aficionado, Saveur, and SKY. He was a finalist in the food journalist category of the 2010 Le Cordon Bleu World Food Media Awards. He is the co-author, with acoustic ecologist Gordon Hempton, of the book One Square Inch of Silence, (Free Press).

The post America’s Cup Runneth Over appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.

Bald Mountain Camps, Maine

By Everett Potter

The phrase “sporting camps” was once confined to classic Maine or Adirondack camps with an emphasis on fly fishing. But in 21st century, the term has broadened. It now means a place where the entire brood can enjoy a sport together and pay something akin to an all-inclusive price. The hallmarks of such camps are authenticity, a gorgeous rural setting and an active week away from it all for the entire family. And while you can still fly fish, if you choose right, you can also surf.

Bald Mountain Camps Resort
Oquossoc, Maine
This classic Maine woods resort has been around since the late 19th century, hosting sportsmen like Teddy Roosevelt who fished for brook trout in Mooselookmeguntic Lake. Today the fishing is still superb, but families will find many other activities after a morning of fly-casting, from kayaking to mountain biking. The central lodge and 14 rustic cabins, each with its own fireplace and screened-in porch, are rustic accommodations at their finest.
From $160 per person, per day, including three meals daily

Bitterroot Ranch
Dubois, Wyo.
You come to Bitterroot Ranch because you love to ride, want to improve your horsemanship or simply want to learn how to ride under the tutelage of some of the best riding instructors in the West. After a morning in the saddle, surrounded by the Shoshone National Forest, you can ride some more, nap in your cabin or head out for some cutthroat trout fishing. Everyone from the lodge gathers in the evening for cocktails, dinner and stories.
Doubles from $2,100, including all meals

Peaks ’n Swells
Montezuma, Costa Rica
No one said a sporting camp had to be in the US, and no country epitomizes the laid-back surfer-dude ethos better than Costa Rica. The water’s warm, the waves are good, and the country is both eco-friendly and kid-friendly. All accommodations at this family surf camp face the beach — think porches, mosquito netting and hammocks for siestas. Parents can take advantage of yoga and pilates sessions, improve their own surfing technique or walk into funky Montezuma, which is a 10-minute stroll away.
From $2,450 per person, all-inclusive, including surfing instruction

The Hedges
Blue Mountain Lake, N.Y.
Fishing in the Adirondacks of upstate New York is a classic experience. The Hedges on Blue Mountain Lake offers an old-fashioned summer vacation experience: Accommodations are rustic and range from lodge rooms to four-bedroom family cabins. While some come to fish, others spend summers here to go boating, swim, canoe or kayak. But the porch rockers and nightly campfires are all the activities that some guests seem to need.
Doubles from $225 for two, including breakfast and dinner

The post Sporting Camps for Families appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.

The Schooner Mary Day sailing along the Maine coast. Photo by Fred LeBlanc

Interview by Everett Potter

It’s a scene that evokes a 19th century painting: a tall masted ship is sailing past fir-covered islands off the rocky Maine coastline. The only sounds are of the wind filling the canvas sails, the creaking of the ship’s timbers, and the squawk of gulls darting overhead. Hour after hour, day after day, punctuated with hearty meals, colorful fishing ports, and some good conversation.

This is the essence of a sailing trip on Maine’s picturesque Penobscot Bay on a windjammer. These venerable ships depart from Rockland, Rockport or Camden, and sail Downeast in the direction of  Mount Desert Island. Since these are wind-driven vessels, there’s no specific schedule and a wishful. Tides and wind dictate your day.

I sailed on the largest ship in the Maine Windjammer Association fleet, Victory Chimes, more than a decade ago, and loved it. So I thought it was high time for an update with Captain Barry King of the Schooner Mary Day, a 90 foot vessel that sails from Camden.

Crew at work. Photo by Sean Holman.

EP: Let’s start at the beginning: what is a “windjammer” and how did they become so closely associated with the Maine coast?
BK: The term “windjammer” was originally a derogatory term used by sailors in steamships when they referred to those sailing vessels that, instead of sailing straight up wind, had to tack back and forth sailing as close to the wind as possible to go places. Due to its lack of access by other means during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, commercial sailing vessels were still in existence along the Maine coast. The first windjammer cruises were offered aboard some of these schooners whose captains were happy to have a new “cargo.” Nowadays the term windjammer refers to any of the traditional sailing vessels offering over night sailing cruises along the Maine coast.

EP: Historically, when did Maine windjammers begin offering passage to paying customers?
BK: Windjammer cruises in Maine began in 1936. A gentleman by the name of Frank Swift saw a potential market for folks from urban and suburban areas enjoying time aboard a traditional Maine coast schooner. Given the popularity of these cruises it seems like he was right.

Hauling aboard the Lewis R. French. Photo by Bridget Besaw Gorman.

EP: Tell us about your ship, the Schooner Mary Day. Is it a vintage working ship or a later version of a windjammer?
BK: Mary Day was the first commercial sailing vessel purpose-built for windjammer cruises. She was built at the Harvey Gamage Shipyard in South Bristol from an original design by Capt Havilah Hawkins who had formerly owned and operated the schooners Stephen Taber and Alice Wentworth. She was the first schooner ever launched just to be a windjammer. As a commercial sailing vessel she was designed for a different purpose than any of the other vessels at the time but she was none the less a commercial sailing, the first schooner launched along the coast of Maine since 1938. Capt Hawkins design reflected the best examples of his experiences aboard older schooners and added his own well-founded ideas about how to make a schooner more comfortable and easier to maintain. In essence she is a coasting schooner like all the rest, just launched a little later with a new cargo in mind. 51 years later I think he got a lot of things just right.

EP: What are the classic reasons that a tourist would enjoy a trip on a Maine windjammer?
BK: Have you ever met someone who didn’t really like to relax and couldn’t enjoy spending a few days poking around the coast of Maine? Windjammer cruises take folks away from the daily cares ashore. No cell phones, no computers, no radios or television telling us what the latest crisis in the news might be. Who doesn’t need a chance to leave “it” all behind? There are some folks who don’t want to let go and that is fine. There are some folks who get seasick looking at a picture of a boat so this type of vacation experience isn’t for everyone. But I can promise this. If anyone wants a chance to relax deeply, to see a still wild part of the coast, to enjoy the thrill of 100 tons of boat being propelled by nothing more than the wind, doesn’t need constant hustle and bustle and can enjoy the company of others,well then this might just to do all of that and more. I have yet to meet the person who doesn’t get just a tinge of excitement when they get a chance to take the wheel or see a seal pup and its mother lying in the sun on an exposed ledge or see porpoise or bald eagle or the granite shores of an unspoiled spruce covered island.

Time ashore. Photo by Fred LeBlanc.

EP: What are the ports of call you might visit?
BK: We have no itinerary. It is that simple. No schedule, no place to be. I like to think that we get guests off the beaten path. You can’t imagine that we could hide a big schooner like Mary Day but Maine is so full of islands and remote little coves it really isn’t that hard. Ports of call? Name any big town along the Maine coast and we don’t go there. A secluded beach, a small island community with a one room school house, a remote part of Acadia National Park that can only be accessed by boat, a small village where lobster boats far out number yachts. That doesn’t give you the names of any specific towns I know but then again most people wouldn’t have a clue where the fishing village of East Brookshaven on Little Long Island in Seal Bay is.

EP: You belong to the Maine Windjammer Association – do you meet up with other windjammers in the course of one of your voyages?
BK: Yes we do! The Maine Windjammer Association is a group of 10 owner/operators working cooperatively to insure the quality of the windjammer experience. The Association host several events during the season when the fleet has a chance to meet up for a “gam”, have a fun day racing around the bay or have a shoreside shindig with music and dancing. As the last and largest working fleet of traditional sailing vessels we can’t help but see and admire the other boats.

Downeast cruising on the Stephen Taber.

EP: How about families –is this a trip that families might enjoy?
BK: Families are more than welcome aboard the schooners. We have hosted family reunions, weddings and small families that just want a chance to spend some quality time together without having to worry about who is doing the cooking or the cleaning. Some of the schooners have a suggested age limit and some specialize in families with younger children.

EP: As a passenger, can I participate in the work life of the ship, helping to hoist sails, say?

BK: You bet! That is what we do best. These windjammers are a fabulous place to learn about sailing, traditional rigging, knots and navigation. Aboard Mary Day we actually offer sail training cruises for school groups and for adults looking for an exciting active experiential vacation that doesn’t require great physical conditioning or special equipment. We also offer a host of other cruises with themes that include folk music, natural history, lighthouses and this year, a beer tasting cruise that features craft beers from Maine.

Galley on the Schooner Timberwind.

EP: Tell us a bit about the food and your chef.

BK: Hearty New England fare, that is what we offer. Breakfasts such as blueberry pancakes with Maine maple syrup, scrambled eggs from our own chickens, and sausage made by a local farmer who lives just down the road from us. Fresh fruit and plenty of hot coffee and tea along with homemade cranberry scones. Lunches are usually hearty soups with fresh garden salads with home made dressings along with fresh bread and something just a little sweet like almond chocolate chip cookies. Dinner entrees include fresh fish with lemon and capers, baked boneless chicken breasts with an orange marmalade glaze, or a southern pulled pork made from Boston butt — again from our neighbor farmer down the road — slow-cooked in the wood cookstove. Every cruise includes an all-you-can-eat lobster dinner. Fresh pies from local fruits in season, a wicked moist chocolate cake with mocha frosting or a strawberry shortcake with light homemade biscuits, hand whipped cream and organic strawberries. Should I mention hand cranked home made ice cream?

Lantern at sunset. Courtesy Maine Windjammer Association.

EP: How about the cost – these are pretty reasonable trips, aren’t they?

BK: Trips cost on average $175 per person, per day, depending on the length of the cruise and the time of season desired. I have had more than a few folks tell us we don’t charge enough. We keep our rates as low as possible and the great thing, unlike other cruise experiences, there are no surcharges or shore visit fees or chances that the engine (in our case the wind) will break down. Our trips are an all-inclusive get-away package that gets you out of your car and answers the question “What are we going to do today?” during your Maine vacation. Compared to shopping, gas, meals, entertainment and room fees for staying at one of the local B&B’s, we are a bargain. I think just knowing that you are doing something extraordinary, seeing the Maine coast from a whole new perspective instead of searching for a parking space from your car is worth the price of admission. The Maine windjammer sailing experience is something you just can’t find anywhere else in the world.

For more information, visit the Maine Windjammer Association

The post Sailing on a Maine Windjammer with Captain Barry King appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.

Hoisting the flag at Ft. McHenry, Baltimore. Photo by Eleanor Berman

By Eleanor Berman

Anyone who has traveled with kids knows the problem: attractions that draw the grown-ups tend to bore the younger generation—and vice versa.  Knowing this first hand, I was double impressed with Baltimore.  This city on Chesapeake Bay has fun for everyone on land and sea and a quirky side that appeals to all ages. Here are a dozen good reasons why families love Baltimore plus an added bonus for the budget: The Charm City Circulator offers frequent service covering almost all of Baltimore’s main sights—and the buses are absolutely free!

1. Hoisting the Star Spangled Banner

Learn how and why the national anthem was written at Ft. McHenry when the outmanned fort miraculously defeated the mighty British fleet. Special observances from mock bombardments to War of 1812 encampments will lead up to a giant celebration on the big battle anniversary, September 14, 2014. When the flag is changed every day at 9:30 a.m. or 4:20 p.m, everyone is invited to help unfurl and hoist the new flag, a replica of the giant 15 stars and stripes banner of 1812.

2. Tilting the odds at the National Pinball Museum

Remember pinball? This exhibit at the National Pinball Museum shows off one man’s great collection of pinball machines, taking visitors on a 140-year journey from Bagatelle (the 18th Century precursor to pinball) to modern day versions. Then you get to actually play in the upstairs Pinhead Gallery. It’s a nostalgia trip for adults, a fun challenge for those raised on computer games.

3. Admiring the Outsiders

The American Visionary Art Museum showcasing art by unschooled artists or “outsiders” is a world of whimsy and color everyone can appreciate. Who can resist the Cabaret Mechanical Theater, with dozens of wooden creations that move with the touch of a button, or exhibits such as a giant sailing ship built of thousands of toothpicks?

Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Museum

4. Riding a vintage steam train

The Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Museum celebrates the nation’s first railroad with displays of historic engines and rail cars and steam locomotives. Even better, you can actually take a ride aboard a historic train. Littlest visitors can also board Choo Choo Blueville, a three-minute kiddie train ride around a landscaped mini-town.

5. A painless dental visit

  Talk about quirky, the National Museum of Dentistry may not sound like fun, but this unusual museum is actually entertaining, with a gallery devoted to George Washington’s false teeth, a five-foot whale tusk, the chance to sing-along with classic toothpaste commercials, see what people have done to enhance their smiles through the ages, and preview the advances we can expect in dentistry in the future (painless, we hope).

6. Rollicking harbor cruises on the Pirate Ship Fearless

 Search for treasure, blast enemies with water cannons and all the while get a tour of  the scenic harbor sailing on Baltimore’s own pirate ship, Fearless. If pirates aren’t your thing, get everyone into the act with a paddle boat ride around the Inner Harbor in a family-size “Nessie” dragon boat. You can also get around the city by boat aboard the Water Taxi, a fun way to travel to most of the major sights, including Ft. McHenry.

USS Constellation, Baltimore

7. Tours of the Tall Ship USS Constellation

Historic Ships in Baltimore offers tours of iconic ships at including the US Constellation, a many-masted sailing sloop dating to 1854. Powder Monkey Tours every Saturday and Sunday at 1:00 and 3:00 show young “recruits” over age 6 how lads as young as 11 lived in Mr. Lincoln’s Navy. Also open for tours are the US Submarine Torsk, the US Coast Guard Cutter Taney, and the Lightship Chesapeake

8. Finny fun at the National Aquarium at Baltimore

Aquariums are always family favorites and the National Aquarium at Baltimore is an especially good one, with some 16,000 species of fish and mammals in exhibits from an Atlantic Coral Reef to the Pacific and the Amazon. Along the way, visitors are eye to eye with fascinating creatures from playful puffins and dolphins to fearsome sharks to creepy jellyfish, funny clownfish and starfish in brilliant rainbow hues.

9.  Port Discovery Children’s Museum

Other cities have children’s museums, sure, but the usual interactive exhibits in the Port Discovery Children’s Museum surround a giant jungle gym called KidsWorks,  a three-story urban tree house where happy youngsters have a ball crawling, jumping, and sliding around.  Little ones love it!

10. Matisse for Moppets

Museum visits don’t always delight kids but that may change at the Baltimore Museum of Art, famed for its Cone Collection, the largest collection of works by Matisse in the world.  To help little ones can enjoy the museum experience, a free Artful Storiesaudio tour is led by Matisse’s dog Raoudi (pronounced “rowdy”), whom kids can see on the painting Interior with Dog. Museum admission is always free and special hands-on art workshops for families take place most Sundays at 2 p.m.

Camden Yards, Baltimore

11. Science adventures

At the Maryland Science Center visitors learn about everything from earth to outer space to dinosaurs and youngest visitors have a special Kids Room where they can send boats down a river channel in water play, operate the fish cam in a submarine, or dress-up like a turtle.

12.  Sports galore

Baltimore’s Camden Yards, the retro-style home of the Baltimore Orioles baseball team, is an iconic stop for fans. Off season the adjacent Sports Legends Museum and the nearby home of Babe Ruth beckon and the Baltimore Ravens pro football team plays at M&T Bank Stadium, a short stroll away.

Eleanor Berman, a New York freelance writer and award-winning author of a dozen travel guides, has covered 82 countries and all 7 continents. She has written for many national publications, including Travel & Leisure, Ladies’ Home Journal, Diversion, Robb Report, Boston Globe, Atlanta Constitution, Denver Post, Miami Herald, and the New York Daily News. Among her guide book awards are a Lowell Thomas award for Traveling Solo, Thomas Cook Book of the Year for Eyewitness Guide to New York, and Independent Publishers IPPY award, best guide of the year, for New York Neighborhoods.

The post 12 Reasons Why Star Spangled Baltimore is a Great Family Destination appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.

The jaw-dropping lobby of The Conrad in Lower Manhattan

By Shari Hartford

Downtown New York City has taken quite a hit the past years…9/11, two hurricanes, Occupy Wall Street and a myriad of financial and building woes. But with the fighting spirit that has made this city, and this community, the center of the universe (at least to me) we have come back bigger and better than ever.

Nothing makes this more evident than the downtown hotel scene. Where once there was an occasional mediocre chain with floors of indistinguishable beds, there is now a vast selection of upscale and unique lodgings. And, 1100 more rooms are on the horizon. No just for the tired businessman, downtown is attracting discerning tourists and well-heeled financial types who want an “experience” rather than just a place to rest their head. With the wealth of transportation options – almost every subway line in the city for getting around the boroughs and a direct route to the new Barclay’s Center in Brooklyn – lower Manhattan is no longer a distant inconvenience.

But how to choose? I’ve done the work for you…bounced on the beds, tested the pillows, used the remote controls, the Wi-Fi and otherwise done a one-night, test run at what’s new, what’s hot and what’s trendy. Since there is a bit of Eloise in me, this was not an insurmountable task. So, next visit to the Big Apple, continue on past Times Square and experience what downtown has to offer.

The Andaz Wall Street

ANDAZ

After a nasty encounter with Superstorm Sandy, the Andaz is once again a beacon on Water Street. There is no traditional reception desk…instead the fashionably clad greeters armed with iPads completed the check-in process at record speed. The coolly lit halls were more high-end residence than hotel. And the cutting edge guest rooms were edgy and sophisticated, although I would have preferred less ambiance and brighter lighting. The electronic black out shades, modular seating, complimentary non-alcoholic drinks and snacks, free Wi-Fi and a soaking tub and shower room made my stay unexpectedly self-indulgent. Alas, the Spa is still under renovation but treatments are available in room. andazwallstreet.com

A room with an amazing view at The Conrad, in Lower Manhattan

THE CONRAD

When Goldman Sachs moved into the ‘hood, just west of the WorldTradeCenter site, they naturally needed a memorable hotel for their visiting movers and shakers. So, the existing Embassy Suites Hotel was gutted and turned into the high-end Conrad [Hilton]. This new hotel festooned with huge pieces of art to rival a museum is fabulous! Ride the escalator up from street level to the sleek and modern15-story atrium lobby. The hotel, which has received Gold Certification from the U.S. Green Building Council’s Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) program, also boasts a rooftop seasonal bar, a wine bar and the renowned Mediterranean restaurant, Atrio.

As soon as I entered my suite (all accommodations have a two-room layout) I was in heaven. Larger than some New York City apartments, the interior design is sleek with muted tones and blonde wood. There are sliding glass panels that can close off the sleeping area, the living room or the mini bar. The desk is comfortable and functional with a wonderful lamp. In fact, the entire suite has terrific lighting – usually not the case and a personal pet peeve. But it was the bathroom that had me gasp. The separate rainfall shower was large enough for group bathing – and had the best-smelling body wash I have ever encountered. After sliding into my incredibly comfortable king sized bed I drifted off for a most restful night’s sleep. conradnewyork.com

Duane Street Hotel, Lower Manhattan

DUANE STREET HOTEL

Tucked away on a side street in Tribeca sits this tiny gem of a hotel. With only 43-rooms, it epitomizes downtown – hip and stylish. Enter through the discreet front door and you feel like you are entering a private club: there is a small desk to check in, a bustling bar to the left and the highly rated Mehtaphor restaurant through that. My room was on the small size but had a black leather platform bed with matching headboard, with the only hint of color being a gorgeous red leather chair. The shining hardwood floors contributed to the charm, although there was a bit of an echo in the room with no carpet or rug to soften the noise. The room was equipped with all the modern amenities one would expect at a hotel such as this, including a fab walk-in shower, turn down service, Wi-Fi and luxury bath products. Need to stay in touch? Borrow an iPad for the duration of your stay. The ever present helpful staff insured that my brief staff was memorable. duanestreethotel.com

Millenium Hilton, in Lower Manhattan

THE MILLENIUM HILTON

Overlooking Ground Zero, the Millenium took a direct hit on 9/11 and remained closed for renovation for about a year. But now, a decade later, it is long reopened, restored and with 569 guest rooms and suites it is one of the premier hotels in lower Manhattan. My room on the 54th floor had a magnificent panoramic view of the World Trade Memorial out one window and the Hudson River and the World Financial Center out another. The blindingly white bed linens and duvet were so inviting and the large bathroom well lit. My only complaint? No bathrobe. And in the morning when I woke to a predicted blizzard, the view from my perch was breathtaking. hilton.com

Ritz-Carlton, Battery Park City, New York

THE RITZ-CARLTON, BATTERY PARK

When you combine the grace and elegance of the Ritz-Carlton chain with bang-up water views, you get a premier destination at the entrance to historic Battery Park. From the time you enter the flower-filled lobby and are whisked away to your room (65% of the 298 guest rooms and suites have a water view—with a telescope for taking in the sights) you are transported to serenity. I found my stay at the Ritz to be the most tranquil of my one night stands – although the room was hardly the largest or the most modern. There was just something about the traditional furnishings and the beautifully made bed that was soothing. If your accommodation has Club Lounge accesses, please do pay it a visit. I sat for a glass of Champagne and a little hors d’oeuvres nibble and again the word “tranquil” keep coming to mind. The spa at the Ritz, while intimate, is relaxing and rejuvenating. ritzcarlton.com/batterypark

W New York Downtown

THE W NEW YORK – DOWNTOWN

Another new kid on the block is the W, located just across from the entrance to the 9/11 Memorial. This homage to glass, art and design is at once funky and sophisticated. Since opening in August, 2010, The W has earned its reputation as a both a destination for sleeping and also for hanging out. The 217 guest rooms have wonderful touches of whimsy – window shades that upon close inspection have tiny red “Ws” worked into the design, animal skin patterned wall paper, and such. Recessed lighting, lots of white and chrome complete the clean look. And once again, here’s that great walk-in rain forest shower! If the weather is nice, spend time at the Living Room Bar and Terrace for a snack or unique cocktail. It’s a bit of resort living in the heart of the Financial District. starwoodhotels.com

AND THEN THERE’S ALSO…

I couldn’t spend the night in every hotel in lower Manhattan, but some more notables are the Wall Street Inn, Mondrian Soho, Tribeca Grand, The Soho Grand, the Crosby Street Hotel, Gild Hall and the Smyth Hotel. We also have our share of Holiday Inns, Hampton Inns and Club Quarters. As you can see, there’s something for everyone.

    Shari Hartford is the former managing editor for Diversion magazine, where she wrote about travel in the northeast and cruising. She is currently a freelance writer and editor based in her hometown of New York City.

The post One Night Stand: 6 Great Downtown NYC Hotels appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.

Hudson River view

By Marian Betancourt

The 19^th century American writer, Washington Irving, called it “the lordly Hudson” in several of his books and indeed, this river that runs both ways through a 150 mile valley of rolling hills has always been a compelling place, not only as the setting of the country’s first river trade route, but the inspiration for our first art movement, the Hudson River School. This is where the Dutch settlers learned from the Native Americans, and farming and trading were established. Hudson and Poughkeepsie were whaling ports in the mid-1800s and the river is still a fishing Mecca.

FDR’s home

As the nation grew, the rich and famous began building country estates overlooking the river.  In 1867, 15 years before Franklin Delano Roosevelt was born, his father James bought a large farm house (circa 1800) in Hyde Park and called it Springwood. His wife Sara and later FDR transformed it in into something grander and the view of the Hudson from the rear balcony of the house was one of President Roosevelt’s favorite spots for much needed R and R.

The Roosevelts of Hyde Park

Today you can see the house is as it was in 1945 when Roosevelt died and it became a museum with his collections of stamps, naval prints, ship models, and anti British cartoons. FDR’s mother insisted he take these cartoons down so as not offend visiting British royalty, but he left them up and the royals had a good laugh.  After his legs were paralyzed from polio, the president liked to stay in shape by pulling himself up to the second floor on a rope until an elevator was eventually installed. The house, part of Historic Hyde Park, is operated by the National Park Service, and the tour guides clearly love their work.  Their knowledge of the history and lore make the visit entertaining and enlightening.

Eleanor Roosevelt’s Val-Kill Cottage

This year marks the 50^th anniversary of Eleanor Roosevelt’s death and the cozy and livable Val Kill with its low ceilings, handmade furnishings and walls filled with photos of family and friends may be the most interesting house on the compound. It was built for her as a getaway from the big house (and her mother-in-law) and it became her permanent home after her husband’s death.  Much of the furniture was made by the Val Kill industries, which Mrs. Roosevelt and her friends established during the depression years to teach local people skills they could use to earn a living. A schoolboy made her a nameplate with the misspelled, “Elinor,” which Mrs. Roosevelt kept on her desk for the rest of her life. As a delegate to the United Nations, Mrs. Roosevelt entertained heads of state such as Winston Churchill and Jawaharial Nehru and it was here that John F. Kennedy came for tea in August 1960 to ask for her endorsement when he ran for President.

When Eleanor Roosevelt died, her son John offered Val Kill to the government, but it was not yet interested in women of accomplishment, so the house was sold to private people and all the furnishings dispersed. (Fortunately, the government had the presence to send a photographer to record the interiors and exterior before it was sold.) Fourteen years later it was designated a national landmark but it took seven more years to get all of her possessions back.  Val Kill opened on Eleanor Roosevelt’s 100^th birthday in 1984.

While the Roosevelt Presidential Library is being renovated, there’s a wonderful photo exhibit in temporary quarters that includes family albums with snapshots fastened with black paper corners, many never before seen. Bill Murray, who portrays FDR in the new film Hyde Park on Hudson, researched the collection with co-star Laura Linney, who plays the president’s distant cousin and possible mistress, Margaret Suckley.

Vanderbilt mansion.

The Vanderbilt Mansion

The Roosevelt homes are modest compared to the 50-room Vanderbilt Mansion, also part of Historic Hyde Park. Built in 1898 by Cornelius Vanderbilt’s grandson, Frederick and his wife Louise, it looks much like a royal palace with its vaulted ceilings, marble columns, hanging tapestries, and velvet and brocade upholstery. It was the only house in Hyde Park at the time that had its own hydroelectric plant to provide electricity. Local people would line the road at dusk to watch the lights come on.  Frederick loved the 21 acres of grounds and gardens including a promontory overlooking the river that is the region’s most popular spot for marriage proposals.

Louise enjoyed entertaining in what served as their spring and fall estate. They wore casual clothes changing outfits only four times a day rather than eight times during the more formal Manhattan and Newport social seasons. The nearby museum gift shop reflects this fashion obsession, offering wide brimmed summer hats for women, and books such as “50 Dresses that Changed the World.”

The Vanderbilts had no children and when widower Frederick died in 1938, he left the estate to a niece, who did not want it and put it on the market for $320,000.  When she got no offers, she lowered the price to $250,000, but still no takers. FDR suggested she give it to the government.

In addition to the buildings and 16 miles of hiking trails, special events may entice you, such as the re-enactment of the annual election night torchlight parade. It was FDRs custom to invite the town folk over to celebrate even though he said, “I know you didn’t vote for me.”  A Roosevelt grandson David (son of Elliot) was scheduled to participate in this year’s parade.

Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa

A Romantic Getaway

There are many historic hotels and resorts in the Hudson Valley such as The Thayer at Westpoint, a national landmark, and the Beekman Arms in Rhinebeck. One of the most romantic is Buttermilk Falls Inn and Spa across the river from Hyde Park in Milton on 75 acres of farmland and orchards overlooking the river.  (Buttermilk Falls was a common name used by early settlers all over the country because such falls served as refrigerators to keep dairy products cold.) The restored and expanded 1764 Anning Smith house has 10 elegant guest rooms uniquely furnished with modern facilities.  The Captain’s Room, honors Smith, who led the militia after British gunboats fired on the town. There are seven individual houses on the property from small restored carriage houses to a modern four-bedroom house with a deck overlooking the river.

A stroll in the wooded areas reveals some old and stately trees and you come upon an antique garden bench, a lovely marble statue of two lovers, or small headstones and statues of children from an historic graveyard. In the middle of all this is an ultra modern solar powered spa and pool.

Millstone Farm’s rambunctious and colorful chickens supply organic eggs for breakfast served on a sun porch and patio at the main house. In addition to a full buffet, there are special egg dishes of the day such as scrambled with spinach, served with a few slices of heritage tomato and purple basil. Afternoon tea is available with home baked goodies, and in winter, hot apple cider.

Henry’s at the Farm, named for the four-year old son of owner Robert Pollock, is a restaurant in a barn-like building, with the kitchen is on the ground floor.  Upstairs, is a bar, banquets freestanding tables and chairs, and an outside deck with four tables. Waiters in country chic jeans and white shirts, keep fit bringing dishes upstairs all evening. Chef Chad Greer, who has worked with culinary luminaries such as Jean Georges Vongerichten, gets his produce from Millstone and other local farms. A lovely crab cake appetizer elegantly composed with red and yellow confit tomatoes and a puree of four kinds of basil, was a knockout. Greer’s signature entre is porcini crusted filet mignon.   The wine list includes some Hudson valley selections, such as an excellent citrusy Millbrook chardonnay.

Walkway over the Hudson

A Walk over the River

You can spend many weekends and weeks discovering the Hudson Valley’s treasures on both sides of the river.  But one thing you must do is take a walk across the river.  The world’s longest elevated pedestrian park, Walkway on the Hudson, was opened in 2009 on an old railroad bridge 212 feet above the river from Poughkeepsie on the east bank to Lloyd on the west.  While New York City’s High Line has become a famous tourist destination, it has nothing on this one with its breathtaking view of the Hudson Valley. Walk or bike over the 1.25 mile span any time of day and see just why America’s first river is indeed a lordly river.

  Marian Betancourt has written about travel and food for Associated Press, American Heritage, Travel & Leisure, Irish America, and many others. She is the author of several books, and has co-authored two regional cookbooks based on her travels. She is a contributing editor for Promenade magazine and lives inNew York City. Visit www.marianbetancourt.com

The post Lordly Views & History on a Hudson Valley Visit appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.

Miami’s South Beach

By Everett Potter

Independence Day brings to mind fireworks, barbecue, and, if you live in Ocean City, crowds. More than 300,000 sun-seekers flood this small Maryland town each July 4th, packing restaurants, boardwalk attractions, and, of course, the beach.

When the summer holiday strikes, fleeing to the beach seems like a no-brainer. After all, what could be better than a sea breeze to cool you off? You and those hundreds of thousands of fellow beachgoers, that is. That’s the kind of maritime mosh pit you’re likely to encounter at America’s popular beaches. And Ocean City, with 4.5 million annual visitors, is hardly the worst offender. Read more about the most crowded beaches in my Travel + Leisure story …

The post America’s Most Crowded Beaches appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.

Cape May street

By Joan Rattner Heilman

Cape May on the New Jersey coast is my kind of place—leafy streets lined with Victorian houses painted in inspired hues and lushly decorated with gingerbread trim, long stretches of open beach,spectacular sunsets, affordable accommodations, a walkable downtown, restaurants good enough for repeat visits, and birds, birds, birds.  In fact, as any ardent birder will tell you, this is one of the best spots on the entire East Coast for viewing  songbirds, shore birds, water birds, eagles and hawks that stop over here during their spring and fall migrations, and others that hang around all year.

Laugher Chick

On a recent visit with my spouse and two friends, all of them much more interested in the turn-of-the-century architecture than they were in a bunch of birds, I talked them into a two-hour Salt Marsh Safari tour of the Cape’s extensive watery marshes aboard a 40-foot pontoon boat called the Skimmer, run by Ginny Powell and her ebullient partner Ed Garrison, both of whom have spent years here and can tell you every interesting fact about every creature out there.  My three companions became instant converts to birding, at least by boat, enthralled by the sights we saw—members of the largest colony of breeding laughing gulls in the world getting ready to nest, red-billed oystercatchers, huge ospreys swooping into the water and coming up with fish clutched tightly in their sharp talons, small white-billed gray ducks called coots, greater yellowlegs, an adolescent green heron, great blue herons, snowy egrets, red-winged blackbirds, common mergansers, cormorants, ruddy turnstones, brants, willets, little beige dunlins, plovers, and others whose names elude me.  No eagles but a few red-tailed hawks.  And the clattering call of a clapper rail who refused to emerge from the reeds.

The next morning, I convinced my group to walk the Nature Conservancy’s one-mile trail on the water’s edge to look for more birds.  Here the major spottings were herons, terns, and blackbirds, and a pair of bald-headed turkey vultures consuming an expired turtle.

Snowy Egret

But when I then proposed heading for the Audubon Center for a guided walk, I was promptly outvoted in favor of an escorted tour through the Emlen Publick Estate,a marvelous authentically restored and furnished 1879 Victorian mansion constructed in the then-avant garde stick style of architecture.  The hour-long tour was narrated by an amusing old gentleman who led us through the house and grounds with elan and stories of the family that had owned it for three generations.Later we strolled around the streets, admiring the “summer cottages” built by rich Southerners as retreats from the heat of the cities.

We had chosen the Dormer House, our B&B, from a Groupon offer and we were lucky.  A large wooden “colonial revival” edifice constructed in 1899 by a moneyed marble dealer from Philadelphia, it is filled with the usual funky old furniture, lace curtains, marble fireplaces, and faded knickknacks, very comfortable, clean, and cozy.  The beds were comfortable, the rooms were large, the breakfasts were sumptuous, afternoon tea came with homemade cakes and cookies, and the owner, Dennis Doherty, was always on hand with local lore and helpful tips.  All of the other 20-or-so guests turned out  to be birders,this being spring migration time, eager to compare notes on where they’d been and what they’d seen with what kind of binoculars.

There are, however, other things to do in Cape May.  You can take a narrated trolley ride through the Historic District to see the historic houses, hotels, and public buildings.  Or stroll the downtown pedestrian malls, stopping here and there to shop, sample fudge, buy an ice cream cone.  Forays in and out of town include riding the ferry and back across Delaware Bay to Lewes, Delaware; driving to Wildwood for an amusement park and a real boardwalk; climbing up the famous Cape May Lighthouse for the view; riding a bike along the shore and inland roads; attending a tasting at a nearby winery; or just hanging out on the beach.

And now, to get to one of the most important issues, how is the food in Cape May?  We spent only three days there but we managed to find good eats, most notably at a small trendy restaurant called Tisha’s and the imposing Lobster House where we stuffed ourselves with excellent fried clams and shrimp. The Blue Pig was a good choice too among the eateries that remain open all year.  And if you’re looking for a simple lunch or, even better, a cocktail or two after a hard day of vacationing, stop in at the Pilot House where you’ll fast feel like family and ready to get going again.

For more information and specifics, get in touch with the Cape May Chamber of Commerce, 609-884-5508, www.capemaychamber.com.  Or, once you’re there, go to the Welcome Center at 609 Lafayette St.

  Joan Rattner Heilman, a New York travel writer is the author of scores of magazine and newspaper articles and columns and over a dozen books, including Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 50.

The post Cape May for the Birds appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.

Dawn kayaking.

Text and Photos by Julie Snyder

Since leavingWisconsin after college, I’ve lived in big cities and small towns, on the East Coast, West Coast and in between. My life’s landscapes have featured mountains, high desert, rivers and oceans. Yet no geography speaks to my soul more than the lakes and eclectic woodlands of the northernMidwest, where we vacationed as a family back in the “Ozzie and Harriet” years.

From our home in southern Wisconsin, we headed north, joining several other families in our respective “housekeeping cabins” at a rustic resort on a pine-fringed lake. Our days revolved around fishing, swimming, twilight diversions like “Kick the Can” and if it rained, board and card games.

Without fail we spent one evening safe in our cars, watching the bears ransack a local garbage dump. Amusement came easily back then, without electronics–except for a transistor radio. Life was carefree indeed for all except mom (housekeeping cabins did require a housekeeper and cook, after all).

Fast forward several decades when my four siblings and I acknowledged that we might not have too many more summers with our aging parents. We decided to go retro and once again rent housekeeping cabins at a lakeside resort. This time northern Minnesotawas the destination, and for five precious summers, three generations returned to Lodge of Whispering Pines on Big Lake, near Ely, Minnesota.

Getting to Ely—near the Minnesota-Canadian border and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness—was its own adventure. Family members living in Iowa and Minnesota would drive from home while the rest of us flew to Minneapolis, then drive 250 miles north, thrilled when the road narrowed and farmland gave way to fabulous forest, a blend of conifers—pines, spruces, firs and junipers—and deciduous favorites including aspen, oak, birch, mountain ash and maple.

Ely (pop: 3,460) is the quintessential Midwestern seasonal tourist town. If you’re in the area over the Fourth of July, the Main Street parade, followed by a carnival in Whiteside Park in the heart of town, is classic—brats, beer, corn-on-the-cob and if you’re lucky, polka dancing!

And if you’re wild about wildlife beyond the ubiquitous deer, visit the residents of the International Wolf Center and the North American Bear Center.

Our rendezvous site in Ely was the Chocolate Moose, where homemade fresh fruit pie is king (strawberry-rhubarb is a family favorite). The Moose is ideally situated next door to Piragis Northwoods Company, the stem-to-stern outfitter for any regional adventure on land and water.

White Pine cabin

The Lodge of Whispering Pines–a 30-minute drive north of Ely—features 11 cabins and a cozy lodge with massive stone fireplace, nestled among the pines around a pristine cove. We always chose White Pine, where the large screened-in porch overlooks the lake, and Timberwolf, designated as the site of activity for family night owls. With only one other resort and a handful of cabins dotting the lakeshore, we felt as if Big Lake was our own.

As when we were kids, days revolved around fishing, swimming and twilight games. This time, we divvyed up the cooking and household chores, ensuring that mom was free of household chores. My brothers, nephews and dad were fishing at dawn, seeking prime angling spots in a small motorboat. My sisters and I kayaked several times each day, watching eagles soar, beavers maintain their lodge, and water lilies, right out of a Monet painting, float lazily. Around the campfire after dark, we invented new versions of S’mores (the “Elvis” includes peanut butter) while warding off swarms of thirsty mosquitoes.

Though we didn’t venture beyond its craggy shoreline, Big Lakeis an entry point to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW), home to some of the finest wilderness canoeing opportunities in the world. The expansive region includes nearly 1.3 million acres of lakes and old-growth pine forests, and boasts 1,500 miles of canoe routes and 2,000 campsites.

View from White Pine cabin

The end of our week at Whispering Pines was always bittersweet. Tradition dictated that our last family meal included the fishermen’s catch for the week, more bountiful some years than others. At sunset, our family flotilla took to Big Lake one more time, absorbing its beauty and our shared adventure as an indelible memory. It was out there–waves gently lapping around my kayak, treetops silhouetted against the setting sun, and family laughter echoing across the lake–where I knew I was home.

Julie Snyder lives near Lake Tahoe, where her current pet project is Nevada Humane Society.  As a writer, editor and publisher, she’s contributed to a variety of lifestyle, in-flight and travel publications, and produced award-winning catalogs for Backroads travel company.  Among her passions are animal welfare, walking, travel and the Green Bay Packers.

The post Northwoods Nostalgia appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.

Golden Gate, as the fog lifts

By Julie Snyder

Funny how traditions get started. One year during our annual anniversary weekend in San Francisco, Joe and I decided to walk across the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito and ferry back. Now we can’t imagine a visit to the City by the Bay without this leisurely 7-mile amble on our itinerary.

This year it isn’t just our anniversary to be celebrated. The Golden Gate Bridge turns 75 in 2012, heralded by a year-long program of events and a public celebration on May 27.

The first public proclamation for bridges across the San Francisco Bay came in 1869 from Joshua Norton, a bankrupted, slightly mad Gold Rush merchant who called himself “Emperor Norton.” In 1872, railroad executive Charles Crocker put forth the first plans and cost estimates for the ambitious bridge project.

Nearly 60 years passed before construction actually began in January of 1933. And on May 28, 1937, President Franklin D. Roosevelt pressed a telegraph key in the White House to announce the opening of the Golden Gate Bridge to the world. With towers soaring 746 above water—about the height of a 50-story building—the spectacular structure opened ahead of schedule and under its $35-million budget.

Judy's for breakfast

On Chestnut Street in the Marina District, we can glimpse the tops of those towers on our way to Judy’s Café, the first stop on our trans-bay trek where the sourdough French toast topped with bananas and strawberries is hearty enough to sustain a walk over not only the Golden Gate, but the Bay and Richmond bridges as well.

Heading for the waterfront, we hang a left near Golden Gate Yacht Club, host to the 34^th America’s Cup in 2013. A bay-hugging promenade—typically offering an entertaining collection of joggers, bikers, walkers and dogs—leads through Crissy Field in the Presidio, a military installation until 1994 when it became an urban national park.

Near the foot of the Golden Gate Bridge, we often stop at the Warming Hut cafe for a coffee and linger on the breakwater to watch water birds are at play—and if we’re lucky, leaping dolphins. A meandering path leads from the hut up a to the bridge’s pedestrian entrance.

The majesty of the suspension structure with its Art Deco lines and red-orange hue eclipses the minor annoyances of traffic noise and crowds (weekdays are less people-packed than weekends). Throughout its history, the Golden Gate Bridge has seen snow and suicides, the maiden call of Cunard’s Queen Victoria, and the 75^th birthday fete of an artist who tap-danced across the bridge’s 1.7-mile expanse.

On the Marin County side of the bridge, Fort Baker—another “Post-to-Park” conversion like the Presidio—offers plenty of diversions, should you want to linger. Historic buildings now house the Bay Area Discovery Museum, a kid magnet with hands-on art, science and environmental exhibitions and events. Fort Baker is also home to Cavallo Point, a luxury lodge with a LEED Gold Certification that Travel+Leisure named one of 10 “Must See Green American Landmarks.”

On a high point beyond Fort Baker, a perfectly positioned bench is an invitation to take a break and survey the marine panorama dotted with sailboats and kayakers. A curvy, tree-lined lane leads down into Sausalito, where we follow the waterfront to the heart of the village –a cluster of shops and bay-view restaurants.

Golden Gate Ferry

We typically forgo Sausalito’s small-town charm and make our way to the Golden Gate Ferry for a spectacular 30-minute cruise back to San Francisco. With feet up, cold beer in hand, we visually revisit our route and revel in 360 degrees of beauty.

Arriving at the Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco, we’re ready for a late lunch, and the edible options are most appetizing—fresh seafood from Hog Island Oyster Company, artisan cheese from Cowgirl Creamery, handmade empanadas from El Porteno, maybe a taste of chocolate from Scharffen Berger. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, the Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market is in full swing until 2 p.m., showcasing the best products of regional farmers and ranchers.

After grabbing a cuppa at Blue Bottle Coffee, browsing at Book Passage and assessing our level of fatigue, we either walk, cable car or taxi back to our hotel. The route for our San Francisco anniversary amble may be traditional, but the experience always offers novelty—and this year, a co-celebrant, the Golden Gate Bridge.

  Julie Snyder lives near Lake Tahoe, where her current pet project is Nevada Humane Society.  As a writer, editor and publisher, she’s contributed to a variety of lifestyle, in-flight and travel publications, and produced award-winning catalogs for Backroads travel company.  Among her passions are animal welfare, walking, travel and the Green Bay Packers.

The post Golden Gate: Hiking a Golden Oldie in San Francisco appeared first on Everett Potter's Travel Report.