Food & Drink

By Alexander Lobrano At Restaurant Jean, just down the street from me in the beautiful but increasingly booshie 9th Arrondissement, a lavishly well-inked young chef has given an exciting new life to a table that had been lost for a little while. If fact, Jean-Frédéric Guidoni, this restaurant’s amiable owner,

By Alexander Lobrano As Jean-Francois Piège has proven once again at the Clover Grill, his casually chic and wonderfully convivial new grill restaurant in an ancient side street in Les Halles, he’s not only a superb chef but a brilliant restauranteur. If this convergence of talents might seem logical, even

  By Gary Walther Do Brasil: This is the restaurant Robinson Crusoe might eventually have built, sturdy, wind-proof tables and chairs underneath a copse of palms, and upstairs a dining room whose aesthetic has more to do with carpentry than design (above). It’s right on Shell Beach, a vest-pocket of

By Gary Walther Online, it’s Keens Steakhouse, but on the awning it’s Keens Chophouse. (No apostrophe, please.) This is just one of the quirks that make this venerable Manhattan meat-eater’s sanctuary on West 36th Street so endearing. It was opened independently in 1885, when the area was part of the

Story and photos by Alexander Lobrano Chez la Vieille has reopened, and this is very good news for anyone who loves the earthy voluptuousness of authentic old-fashioned French bistro cooking as much as I do. We have Chicago born chef Daniel Rose to thank for this welcome and very artful

By Ann Abel “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one hasn’t eaten well.” That Virginia Woolf quotation is the mantra driving a new breed of hotel cooking classes. After all, it’s much easier to eat well if you cook well. They’re going far above and beyond the

By Alexander Lobrano Reinventing a restaurant as famous as La Tour d’Argent was always going to be fraught with problems. Why? Well, if some clients might welcome the changes, perhaps even muttering under their breath, ‘Thank goodness, it’s about time!,’ others would denounce even the most reverent tinkering with the

By Alexander Lobrano Restaurant Passerini, which occupies a spare but handsomely renovated former cafe in the 12th Arrondissement of Paris near the Marche d’Aligre, one of my very favorite Paris markets, is not only the best new Italian restaurant in Paris but Europe. Now that’s a tall statement, Alec, you

By Alexander Lobrano Chef David Rathgeber’s restaurant L’Assiette is not only the best bistro in Montparnasse, but one of the best bistros in Paris. Why? I’ll let the chef himself explain why it’s so good. “I don’t like la cuisine d’assemblage (the modern mode for plates of food that are

By Larry Olmsted While I certainly enjoy the occasional beer, I drink a lot less of it than wine and spirits, and I’m not a serious craft beer guy. I appreciate the process and the passion, I seek out local beer when I travel, and I have been to too